MATERIAL
Yarn: Soft Lino Laines du Nord, 4 balls of yarn
Circular needles nr. 3.75
60 cm cable, 5 point markers; color 17
SAMPLE
cm. 10X 10 = 22 stitches, 38 rows.
SHARE
ABBREVIATIONS
m = stitch (e);
MP = point mark;
pMP = pass MP
LD = right side of the work
LR = wrong side of the piece
dr = straight;
r = reverse;
viv = edge;
2ins = 2 sts together knit
3ins = 3 sts together knit
acc = simple overlap: slip a stitch without knitting it, 1 dr, overlap the passed stitch over that worked.
get = one toss
rip ** =
repeat from * to *
G = round, F = iron; K = knit, purl = purl, MP = stitch marker, pM = pass stitch marker DDL = right side RDL = wrong side, GET = cast
M1 = raise the yarn that passes between one stitch and another and knit it straight
1 st = a crossed stitch
K 2 ins = knit 2 stitches together
ddd = straight increase front back
1 double st acc = slip a stitch without working it, work
2 stitches together knit, and pass the passed stitch over the others
2 sts pss = slip 2 stitches loosely with the yarn as if you were making a purl
NOTES
This shirt is worked in the round, top down, from top to bottom. The yoke is divided into 3 sections, the first is a round yoke, with a series of irregular increases distributed over all the stitches. The second part is an openwork design (multiple of 18 stitches) which creates a pattern and creates the increases. In the third part increases are made, one round yes and one round no, only on the front and back. After the sleeve is closed the piece is joined in the round and part of the bust is made.
Finally, the work is divided to create the opening, in this phase we work in round-trip irons.
MEASURES
Developed in 2 sizes M / L
Size S = neckline about 72 cm, height from shoulder to sleeve colo about 25 cm, total length 56/57 cm, bust around 90 cm.
POINTS USED
Stockinette stitch, garter stitch, lace work
INSTRUCTIONS
START with the iron n.3,75, mount 120 close round METTI MP
1/2/3 turn = all straight
4 g = fully purl
5 g = straight
6 g = purl
7 g = * 12 k, M1 * repeat from * to * x the whole round = 130 sts,
8 g = all straight
9 g = 6 k, M1, * 13 k, M1 * repeat from * to * and ends the round with 7 k. = m 140,
10 g = all straight
11 g = 7 k, M1, * 14 k, M1 * repeat from * to * and ends the round with 7 k. = m150,
12 g = all straight
R 13 = K 4, M1, * 13 dir, M1 * repeat from * to * and finish the round with K 3 = stitches 162
14 g = all straight
Here you make another 18 increases Only for size L = * 9 dir, M1 *
repeat from * to * = 180
Then 1 turn straight
15 g = fully purl
COLOR CHANGE insert 9 (10) drawings BETWEEN ONE drawing and the other put MP,
Design: multiple of 18 links
1st g = * 2 m ins, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 12 dir, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 1
m acc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
2/4/6/8/10/12/14/16/18/20 ° g = all straight
3rd g = * 2 m ins, 1 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 ma cc, 8 dir, 2 m ins, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 ma cc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
5th g = * 2 sts ins, 2 ks, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 10 ks, 1 get, 1 ks, 1 get, 2 ks, 1 sts * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
7th g = * 2 m ins, 3 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 ma cc, 6 dir, 2 m ins, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 3 dir, 1 ma cc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
9th g = * 2 sts ins, 4 ks, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 8 ks, 1 get, 1 ks, 1 get, 4 ks, 1 sts * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
11th g = * 2 m ins, 5 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 ma cc, 4 dir, 2 m ins, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 5 dir, 1 ma cc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
13th g = * 2 st ins, 6 k, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 6dir, 1 get, 1 k, 1 get, 6 k, 1 st * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
15th g = * 2 m ins, 7 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 ma cc, 2 dir, 2 m ins, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 7 dir, 1 ma cc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
17th g = * 2 st ins, 8 k, 1 get, 1 k 1 get, 4 k, 1 get, 1 k, 1 get, 8 k, 1 st * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
19th g = * 2 st ins, 10 k, 1 get, 1 st cc, 2 st st, 1 get, 10 k, 1 st * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
R 20 = * K 12, 1 get, 2 ins taken from back, 1 get, K 12, * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
Phase 3
1st r = purl REMOVE MP FROM PATTERN, release
that of the start of the lap.
TOTAL OF THE SHIRTS = m. 252 (280)
DIVISION OF WORK TO BE ABLE TO CONTINUE WITH THE
INCREASE front and back only.
Starting from Mp of the beginning of the 2nd g = 32 dir (M37), 1ddd,
PUT MP; 60dir (M63), PUT MP
1ddd, 64 dir (M76), 1ddd, METTI MP; 60dir (M63), PUT
MP, 1 ddd, straight to END OF LAP
3rd g = all STRAIGHT
4th g = straight and first Mp 1ddd, pMP; all straight, pMP 1ddd, straight and first Mp 1ddd, pMP; all straight, pMP ddd, straight up to END OF THE LAP
5th g = all STRAIGHT
Repeat rows 4 and 5 for another 7 (size 9) times.
Then: the edge of the sleeve is created like this:
1st g = straight and first Mp 1ddd, pMP; all reverse, Pmp, 1ddd, straight and first Mp 1ddd, pMP; completely reverse, pMP, 1 ddd, straight up to END OF LAP
2nd g = all STRAIGHT
REPEAT rounds 1 and 2 for another 3 (size L 3) TIMES,
THEN REPEAT rows 4 and 5 for 1 TIME for all sizes
CLOSURE OF THE SLEEVE starting from initial Mp
straight up to MP, REMOVE MP, SOFT CLOSE the links up to Mp, REMOVE MP, straight up to MP, REMOVE MP, CLOSE SOFTLY the
stitches up to Mp, REMOVE MP, now working straight REMOVE MP from the beginning, work to the end of the row.
WORKING JOIN IN THE ROUND fit 8 / L 10 stitches, put MP (which will now be that of the change of round) knit to the end of the row, fit 8 / L 10 stitches, knit until the end of the round.
Now work straight stitch in the round for approx. 10 cm.
Now do a FULL CIRCLE REVERSE
THEN = 1 straight round, WHILE WORKING, INCREASE 10 evenly
(Ddd, STRAIGHT, FRONT and BACK), you need to make 2 stitches in one, LIKE THIS:
make 1 straight, do not unload it, then work it on the back again.
POI = KNITTING DIVIDER TO create the side split
STARTING FROM initial Mp: 65 dir, PUT Mp, then reverse until END OF LAP, TAKE OFF MP, REVERSE until MARKER YOU PUT BEFORE. TURN the work and be very ATTENTION NOW YOU GO BACK AND WORK IN RETURNS,
In this way:
RDL 1 row = THIS you will do now is the EDGE of the split: 2m pass, * 1 k 1 p * repeat from ** to * x 4 times, 1 k, put MP, then REVERSE to the end of the row. Since now you are working on the plan REMOVE MP, THEN TURN
DDL 2 rows = ASSEMBLE 11 STITCHES then: work 11 straight stitches, PUT MP, then STRAIGHT up to MP, then Pmp, * 1rov, 1 k * repeat from ** to * x 4 times, 1 p, 2 k.
TURN
RDL 3 rows = 2m pass, * 1 K 1 P * from ** to * x 4 times, 1 K, Pmp, purl up to MP, Pmp
* 1 K 1 P * repeat from ** to * x 4 times, 1 K, 2m pass. THEN TURN
DDL 4 rows = K 2, * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from ** to * x 4 times, P 1, Pmp, STRAIGHT up to Mp, then Pmp, * 1 v, K 1 * repeat from ** to * x 4 times, 1 purl, 2 dir.
REPEAT row 3 and row 4 for CM 20/21
Remember that EVERY 6 cm (size L EVERY 4 cm) YOU MUST INCREASE 10 STITCHES, but in the stockinette stitch you have to increase this way
M1s = with the tip of the right needle lift the yarn that passes between one stitch and the other and place it on the left needle so that you can work it twisted by taking it from the back.
END the stitch with a GARTER border, (then knit) and CONTINUE TO WORK the side edges the same way as before, for about 2 or 3 cm.
Then close softly.
At the end, sew the part of the increased stitches so as to overlap the opening. If you like, sew a button closing the slit, attach another 2 or 3 as decoration.
BLUE OCEAN
MATERIAL
Yarn: Soft Lino Laines du Nord, 4 balls of yarn
Circular needles nr. 3.75
60 cm cable, 5 point markers; color 17
SAMPLE
cm. 10X 10 = 22 stitches, 38 rows.
SHARE
ABBREVIATIONS
m = stitch (e);
MP = point mark;
pMP = pass MP
LD = right side of the work
LR = wrong side of the piece
dr = straight;
r = reverse;
viv = edge;
2ins = 2 sts together knit
3ins = 3 sts together knit
acc = simple overlap: slip a stitch without knitting it, 1 dr, overlap the passed stitch over that worked.
get = one toss
rip ** =
repeat from * to *
G = round, F = iron; K = knit, purl = purl, MP = stitch marker, pM = pass stitch marker DDL = right side RDL = wrong side, GET = cast
M1 = raise the yarn that passes between one stitch and another and knit it straight
1 st = a crossed stitch
K 2 ins = knit 2 stitches together
ddd = straight increase front back
1 double st acc = slip a stitch without working it, work
2 stitches together knit, and pass the passed stitch over the others
2 sts pss = slip 2 stitches loosely with the yarn as if you were making a purl
NOTES
This shirt is worked in the round, top down, from top to bottom. The yoke is divided into 3 sections, the first is a round yoke, with a series of irregular increases distributed over all the stitches. The second part is an openwork design (multiple of 18 stitches) which creates a pattern and creates the increases. In the third part increases are made, one round yes and one round no, only on the front and back. After the sleeve is closed the piece is joined in the round and part of the bust is made.
Finally, the work is divided to create the opening, in this phase we work in round-trip irons.
MEASURES
Developed in 2 sizes M / L
Size S = neckline about 72 cm, height from shoulder to sleeve colo about 25 cm, total length 56/57 cm, bust around 90 cm.
POINTS USED
Stockinette stitch, garter stitch, lace work
INSTRUCTIONS
START with the iron n.3,75, mount 120 close round METTI MP
1/2/3 turn = all straight
4 g = fully purl
5 g = straight
6 g = purl
7 g = * 12 k, M1 * repeat from * to * x the whole round = 130 sts,
8 g = all straight
9 g = 6 k, M1, * 13 k, M1 * repeat from * to * and ends the round with 7 k. = m 140,
10 g = all straight
11 g = 7 k, M1, * 14 k, M1 * repeat from * to * and ends the round with 7 k. = m150,
12 g = all straight
R 13 = K 4, M1, * 13 dir, M1 * repeat from * to * and finish the round with K 3 = stitches 162
14 g = all straight
Here you make another 18 increases Only for size L = * 9 dir, M1 *
repeat from * to * = 180
Then 1 turn straight
15 g = fully purl
COLOR CHANGE insert 9 (10) drawings BETWEEN ONE drawing and the other put MP,
Design: multiple of 18 links
1st g = * 2 m ins, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 12 dir, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 1
m acc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
2/4/6/8/10/12/14/16/18/20 ° g = all straight
3rd g = * 2 m ins, 1 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 ma cc, 8 dir, 2 m ins, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 ma cc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
5th g = * 2 sts ins, 2 ks, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 10 ks, 1 get, 1 ks, 1 get, 2 ks, 1 sts * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
7th g = * 2 m ins, 3 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 ma cc, 6 dir, 2 m ins, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 3 dir, 1 ma cc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
9th g = * 2 sts ins, 4 ks, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 8 ks, 1 get, 1 ks, 1 get, 4 ks, 1 sts * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
11th g = * 2 m ins, 5 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 ma cc, 4 dir, 2 m ins, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 5 dir, 1 ma cc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
13th g = * 2 st ins, 6 k, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 6dir, 1 get, 1 k, 1 get, 6 k, 1 st * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
15th g = * 2 m ins, 7 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 ma cc, 2 dir, 2 m ins, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 7 dir, 1 ma cc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
17th g = * 2 st ins, 8 k, 1 get, 1 k 1 get, 4 k, 1 get, 1 k, 1 get, 8 k, 1 st * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
19th g = * 2 st ins, 10 k, 1 get, 1 st cc, 2 st st, 1 get, 10 k, 1 st * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
R 20 = * K 12, 1 get, 2 ins taken from back, 1 get, K 12, * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
Phase 3
1st r = purl REMOVE MP FROM PATTERN, release
that of the start of the lap.
TOTAL OF THE SHIRTS = m. 252 (280)
DIVISION OF WORK TO BE ABLE TO CONTINUE WITH THE
INCREASE front and back only.
Starting from Mp of the beginning of the 2nd g = 32 dir (M37), 1ddd,
PUT MP; 60dir (M63), PUT MP
1ddd, 64 dir (M76), 1ddd, METTI MP; 60dir (M63), PUT
MP, 1 ddd, straight to END OF LAP
3rd g = all STRAIGHT
4th g = straight and first Mp 1ddd, pMP; all straight, pMP 1ddd, straight and first Mp 1ddd, pMP; all straight, pMP ddd, straight up to END OF THE LAP
5th g = all STRAIGHT
Repeat rows 4 and 5 for another 7 (size 9) times.
Then: the edge of the sleeve is created like this:
1st g = straight and first Mp 1ddd, pMP; all reverse, Pmp, 1ddd, straight and first Mp 1ddd, pMP; completely reverse, pMP, 1 ddd, straight up to END OF LAP
2nd g = all STRAIGHT
REPEAT rounds 1 and 2 for another 3 (size L 3) TIMES,
THEN REPEAT rows 4 and 5 for 1 TIME for all sizes
CLOSURE OF THE SLEEVE starting from initial Mp
straight up to MP, REMOVE MP, SOFT CLOSE the links up to Mp, REMOVE MP, straight up to MP, REMOVE MP, CLOSE SOFTLY the
stitches up to Mp, REMOVE MP, now working straight REMOVE MP from the beginning, work to the end of the row.
WORKING JOIN IN THE ROUND fit 8 / L 10 stitches, put MP (which will now be that of the change of round) knit to the end of the row, fit 8 / L 10 stitches, knit until the end of the round.
Now work straight stitch in the round for approx. 10 cm.
Now do a FULL CIRCLE REVERSE
THEN = 1 straight round, WHILE WORKING, INCREASE 10 evenly
(Ddd, STRAIGHT, FRONT and BACK), you need to make 2 stitches in one, LIKE THIS:
make 1 straight, do not unload it, then work it on the back again.
POI = KNITTING DIVIDER TO create the side split
STARTING FROM initial Mp: 65 dir, PUT Mp, then reverse until END OF LAP, TAKE OFF MP, REVERSE until MARKER YOU PUT BEFORE. TURN the work and be very ATTENTION NOW YOU GO BACK AND WORK IN RETURNS,
In this way:
RDL 1 row = THIS you will do now is the EDGE of the split: 2m pass, * 1 k 1 p * repeat from ** to * x 4 times, 1 k, put MP, then REVERSE to the end of the row. Since now you are working on the plan REMOVE MP, THEN TURN
DDL 2 rows = ASSEMBLE 11 STITCHES then: work 11 straight stitches, PUT MP, then STRAIGHT up to MP, then Pmp, * 1rov, 1 k * repeat from ** to * x 4 times, 1 p, 2 k.
TURN
RDL 3 rows = 2m pass, * 1 K 1 P * from ** to * x 4 times, 1 K, Pmp, purl up to MP, Pmp
* 1 K 1 P * repeat from ** to * x 4 times, 1 K, 2m pass. THEN TURN
DDL 4 rows = K 2, * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from ** to * x 4 times, P 1, Pmp, STRAIGHT up to Mp, then Pmp, * 1 v, K 1 * repeat from ** to * x 4 times, 1 purl, 2 dir.
REPEAT row 3 and row 4 for CM 20/21
Remember that EVERY 6 cm (size L EVERY 4 cm) YOU MUST INCREASE 10 STITCHES, but in the stockinette stitch you have to increase this way
M1s = with the tip of the right needle lift the yarn that passes between one stitch and the other and place it on the left needle so that you can work it twisted by taking it from the back.
END the stitch with a GARTER border, (then knit) and CONTINUE TO WORK the side edges the same way as before, for about 2 or 3 cm.
Then close softly.
At the end, sew the part of the increased stitches so as to overlap the opening. If you like, sew a button closing the slit, attach another 2 or 3 as decoration.