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PAINT SOCK

MATERIAL

YARN = Paint Sock
CIRCULAR NEEDLES = 2.75 and 3 mm, with 30 cm cables
OTHER = tapestry needle, scissor, pins, stitch markers

SAMPLE

10 x 10 cm = 30 sts; and 40 sts in stcoking st with 2.75 mm needles

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ABBREVIATIONS

RS = right side
WS = wrong side
st(s) = stitch(es)
R = row
SKP = slip 1, K1, pass slipped stitch over
SK2P = slip 1, K2tog, pass slipped stitch over
K = knit
P = purl
YO = yarn over
K2tog = knit 2 sts together
rep ** = repeat from * to *

NOTES

Difficulty level: Hight
Worked from the toe up to the 1/1 rib edge of the top.

MEASURES

39/40 ITA

POINTS USED

Stocking st, german short rows, 1/1 rib st.

INSTRUCTIONS

Toe

Use 2.75 mm needles.

Create a small loop and place it on one needle, then match the 2 needles, one over the other; holding the needle with the loop under.

Using the tail, cast on 12 sts on both needles: wind the thread 12 times (from the outside to the inside) around the 2 needles. At the end, hold the last loop still with your index finger and gently pull (forward) the underlying needle (the sts remain on the cable), then use this needle and the working thread to knit 12 sts into the loops of the needle above; work these sts loosely, to facilitate sliding. Gently pull the cable to equalize the 2 needles again, positioning the needle with the 12 knitted sts under the needle with the 12 loops still to be worked.

Pull the needle forward (leaving the 12 knitted sts on the cable) and use it to knit 12 sts on the upper needle. Pairing the 2 needles again with 12 knitted sts on one needle and 12 knitted st on the other one.

From the next round start to increase the sides. Always check that the working thread is on the needle below.

2° round: pull the needle below forward and start working the sts of the needle above. The increases are always done after the first st and before the last st; so work: K1, YO, K10, YO, K1. Pull the cable to even the needles, rotate them so that the sts worked and the working thread are positioned under the other needle, then pull the underlying needle forward and K1, YO, K10, YO, K1 on the needle above [28 sts in total]

3° round: K all the sts on 2 needles and knit through the back loop the 4 YOs.

4° - 15° rounds: work as rounds 2° and 3, in order to have 52 sts in total at the end of the 15° round (= 4 increases every 2 rounds for 6 times).

Back and sole of the sock

Now match the sts holding the needle with the working thread behind the other needle, pull out the back needle and start working on the sts of the front needle.

16° - 70° rounds (13 cm): work in stocking sts on the same number of sts (26 sts on each needle).

From the next round, start increasing the number of sts again to widen the body of the sock before making the actual heel, so set the work as follows:

71° round: K26 on 1° needle, on2° needles K1, YO, K24, YO, K1 [54 sts]

72° round: K all the sts and knit through the back loop the 2 YOs.

73° round: K26 on 1° needle, on 2° needle K1, YO, K to the 1 st before end, YO, K1

74° round: K all the sts and knit through the back loop the 2 YOs.

75° - 94° rounds: rep rounds 73° and 74° for 9 times [at the end of 74° round, you have 26 sts on 1° needle and 52 sts on 2° needle]

The 26 sts correspond to the back of the sock, while the other 52 sts correspond to the sides and the sole.

Continue only on the 26 central sts of the group of 52 sts to make the heel and leave the rest of the sts on hold momentarily.

Place a stitch marker on the 1a st and the 26a st. of the heel.

Heel

On the 26 sts of the heel, work in stocking st with German short rows 14 rows, so as to return to having 12 sts as at the beginning of the toe.

Change to 3 mm needles and knit 26 sts for 14 rows, keeping in mind that during the 1st rows, it will be necessary to work on the 7 sts of the first side with short rows, on 12 sts. remaining of the heel and on the 7 sts of the second side with short rows for a total of 26 sts.

Continue on these 26 sts for 14 rows and at the same time, at the beginning and at the end of each row join with the sts of margin left on hold at the end of 94° round: insert the needle in the first (or last) st. heel, then insert it into 1st st. (or in the last) unworked st of the sts left on hold from 94° round, then work the 2 sts together.

After completing the union of the lateral edges of the heel with the first 13 and with the last 13 sts left on hold on 94° round, change again to 2.75 mm needles and resume working in rounds.

Leg

Work in stocking st on 52 sts (26 sts on 1° needle and 26 sts on 2° needle) for 102 rounds, about 25 cm.

1/1 rib st

Change to 3 mm needles and work in 1/1 rib st for 30 rounds ( about 8,5 cm).

Cast off all sts.

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PAINT SOCK

MATERIAL

YARN = Paint Sock
CIRCULAR NEEDLES = 2.75 and 3 mm, with 30 cm cables
OTHER = tapestry needle, scissor, pins, stitch markers

SAMPLE

10 x 10 cm = 30 sts; and 40 sts in stcoking st with 2.75 mm needles

SHARE
ABBREVIATIONS

RS = right side
WS = wrong side
st(s) = stitch(es)
R = row
SKP = slip 1, K1, pass slipped stitch over
SK2P = slip 1, K2tog, pass slipped stitch over
K = knit
P = purl
YO = yarn over
K2tog = knit 2 sts together
rep ** = repeat from * to *

NOTES

Difficulty level: Hight
Worked from the toe up to the 1/1 rib edge of the top.

MEASURES

39/40 ITA

POINTS USED

Stocking st, german short rows, 1/1 rib st.

INSTRUCTIONS

Toe

Use 2.75 mm needles.

Create a small loop and place it on one needle, then match the 2 needles, one over the other; holding the needle with the loop under.

Using the tail, cast on 12 sts on both needles: wind the thread 12 times (from the outside to the inside) around the 2 needles. At the end, hold the last loop still with your index finger and gently pull (forward) the underlying needle (the sts remain on the cable), then use this needle and the working thread to knit 12 sts into the loops of the needle above; work these sts loosely, to facilitate sliding. Gently pull the cable to equalize the 2 needles again, positioning the needle with the 12 knitted sts under the needle with the 12 loops still to be worked.

Pull the needle forward (leaving the 12 knitted sts on the cable) and use it to knit 12 sts on the upper needle. Pairing the 2 needles again with 12 knitted sts on one needle and 12 knitted st on the other one.

From the next round start to increase the sides. Always check that the working thread is on the needle below.

2° round: pull the needle below forward and start working the sts of the needle above. The increases are always done after the first st and before the last st; so work: K1, YO, K10, YO, K1. Pull the cable to even the needles, rotate them so that the sts worked and the working thread are positioned under the other needle, then pull the underlying needle forward and K1, YO, K10, YO, K1 on the needle above [28 sts in total]

3° round: K all the sts on 2 needles and knit through the back loop the 4 YOs.

4° - 15° rounds: work as rounds 2° and 3, in order to have 52 sts in total at the end of the 15° round (= 4 increases every 2 rounds for 6 times).

Back and sole of the sock

Now match the sts holding the needle with the working thread behind the other needle, pull out the back needle and start working on the sts of the front needle.

16° - 70° rounds (13 cm): work in stocking sts on the same number of sts (26 sts on each needle).

From the next round, start increasing the number of sts again to widen the body of the sock before making the actual heel, so set the work as follows:

71° round: K26 on 1° needle, on2° needles K1, YO, K24, YO, K1 [54 sts]

72° round: K all the sts and knit through the back loop the 2 YOs.

73° round: K26 on 1° needle, on 2° needle K1, YO, K to the 1 st before end, YO, K1

74° round: K all the sts and knit through the back loop the 2 YOs.

75° - 94° rounds: rep rounds 73° and 74° for 9 times [at the end of 74° round, you have 26 sts on 1° needle and 52 sts on 2° needle]

The 26 sts correspond to the back of the sock, while the other 52 sts correspond to the sides and the sole.

Continue only on the 26 central sts of the group of 52 sts to make the heel and leave the rest of the sts on hold momentarily.

Place a stitch marker on the 1a st and the 26a st. of the heel.

Heel

On the 26 sts of the heel, work in stocking st with German short rows 14 rows, so as to return to having 12 sts as at the beginning of the toe.

Change to 3 mm needles and knit 26 sts for 14 rows, keeping in mind that during the 1st rows, it will be necessary to work on the 7 sts of the first side with short rows, on 12 sts. remaining of the heel and on the 7 sts of the second side with short rows for a total of 26 sts.

Continue on these 26 sts for 14 rows and at the same time, at the beginning and at the end of each row join with the sts of margin left on hold at the end of 94° round: insert the needle in the first (or last) st. heel, then insert it into 1st st. (or in the last) unworked st of the sts left on hold from 94° round, then work the 2 sts together.

After completing the union of the lateral edges of the heel with the first 13 and with the last 13 sts left on hold on 94° round, change again to 2.75 mm needles and resume working in rounds.

Leg

Work in stocking st on 52 sts (26 sts on 1° needle and 26 sts on 2° needle) for 102 rounds, about 25 cm.

1/1 rib st

Change to 3 mm needles and work in 1/1 rib st for 30 rounds ( about 8,5 cm).

Cast off all sts.

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