MATERIAL
YARN = 1 ball of col. 04 CHUNKY DEGRADÈ by LAINES DU NORD
CIRCULAR NEEDLES = 12 mm points and 40 cm cable (60 cm circumference, points included)
OTHERS = darning needle with silicon eye, stitch marker suits for 12 mm points, pins, scissors, tape measure.
SAMPLE
10 x 10 cm: 7 sts. and 10 r. in stocking st. using 12 mm points.
SHARE
ABBREVIATIONS
RS = right side of work
WS = wrong side of work
SM = stitch marker
SMb = stitch marker of the beginning of the round
r. = row(s) / round(s)
st.(s) = stitch(es)
incr. = increase
col. = color
k = knit
decr. = decrease
tog. = together
rep. = repeat
p = purl
follow(ing)
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
k2tog-b = knit 2 stitches together through the back loop
yo = yarn over
NOTES
Work the balaclava from central hole (opening for face) and continue in round shaping the hood. Using the specific key, fasten the points at cable.
SKILL LEVEL: Experienced
MEASURES
SIZE
This yarn has wide elasticity, of 2 cm approx. For this reason, it suits to small and big heads too.
POINTS USED
Invisible closing in round: slip 1st st. from left to right needle. Pass 2nd st. of right needle over 1st st. and drop it. After fastening the work, pull 2 yarns together (yarn from ball and cast-on end); the stitch you have dropped will tighten itself and make one knot, shaping the invisible closing and fastening the ring. At last, move the 1st st. from right to left point, placing SM on right point.
Stocking stitch in round
1st round and next rounds: knit until SM, move SM.
Stocking stitch in back-and-forth rows
1st r. (RS): knit.
2nd r. (WS): purl.
Always rep. 1st and 2nd f.
Decrease to the left (Slip-slip-knit): with right point slip 1st st. k-wise, slip 2nd st. k-wise; move these 2 sts. onto left point of needles, as they appear. At last, k2tog-b like shown by the picture.
Decrease to the right: k2tog
Short rows technique (= wrap
INSTRUCTIONS
FIRST PART
Cast-on 60 sts. ( 1). Do not twist the sts. on cable. Make the invisible closing in round, place the SMb on right point and move it upwards as you work.
1st, 2nd and 3rd round: k60 until end of round, move the SM.
Across next round work the decreases.
4th round: k2, 1 decr. to the left, k1 in every st. until 4 before the SM, 1 decr. to the right, k2 on last 2 sts.
NB: the 4th round is the last one in stocking st. in round and then you start the stocking st. in back-and-forth rows.
At the end of this round, knit first 2 sts. after SM too, then leave (on safety pin or wool thread closed in ring shape) 2 sts. before SM and first 2 sts. after SM (4 sts. in total). Remove the SM, as you don’t need it anymore!
In case you are using the wool thread (10 cm in length approx.), thread the darning needle and slip 2 sts. from left needle onto thread, as they appear. Now unthread the needle, knot at 2 ends of thread securing the 4 sts. you have left.
SECOND PART
NB: to use the circular needles in back-and-forth rows, keep all sts. to left point. In this way the right point is free, and you can use it freely.
Continue in stocking st. in back-and-fort rows.
1st r. (RS): knit the rem. 54 sts. you have on left needle. Turn.
2nd r. (WS): purl the rem. 54 sts. you have on left needle. Turn.
From 3rd to 14th r.: rep. (1st and 2nd r.) 6 times more.
15th r. (RS): k21, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k21.
16th f. (WS): slip 1st st., slip p-wise all sts. until end of r.
At next r., start the short-rows technique.
17th r. (RS): k20, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k12 and in 13th st. make “wrap and turn” (= 8 unworked sts. on left needle): slip p-wise next st. from left needle to right needle, move the yarn of ball in front of work and slip st. onto left needle again, now turn (from now on, work on WS). There are 7 unworked sts. and the eighth st. is wrapped by yo.
18th r. (WS): purl every st. until 8 sts. to the end (there are 8 sts. to the end of r.), in next st. work “wrap and turn”: move the yarn of ball in back of work, slip p-wise next st. from left needle to right needle, then slip the st. on left needle again, turn (from now on, work on RS). There are 7 unworked sts. and the eighth is wrapped by yo.
19th r. (RS): k11, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k11, and in 12th st., which is visually wrapped by yo (i.e. the st. that you have moved, wrapped and moved in previous row again), then work the yarn, you have wrapped around the st., together with the st. K1 and “wrap and turn” again like above (there are 5 unworked sts.). The 6th st. is wrapped by yo. Turn.
20th r. (WS): k44 until the st. which is visually wrapped by yo, then purl the yarn, you have wrapped around the st., together with the st. P1 and “wrap and turn” like above, move the yarn of ball in back of work, slip next st. p-wise from left needle to right needle, then slip the st. back onto left needle, turn (from now on, work on RS). There are 5 unworked sts. and the 6th is wrapped by yo.
21st r. (RS): k13, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k12 and, in 13rd st., which is visually wrapped by yo, work the yarn, you have wrapped around the st., together with the st., then k1 and “wrap and turn”, like above (there are 3 unworked sts). The 4th st. is wrapped by yo.
22nd r. (WS): purl all sts. of left needle until the st. which is visually wrapped by yo, then purl the yarn you have wrapped around the st. together with the st. P1 and “wrap and turn”, then move the yarn of ball on WS, slip next st. from left needle to right needle, slip st. back on left needle and turn on RS. There are 3 unworked sts., the 4th st. is wrapped by yo.
23rd r. (RS): k14, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k13 and, in 14th st., which is visually wrapped by yo, work the yarn you have wrapped around the st. together with the st., then k1 and “wrap and turn”. Turn (move on RS), there are 3 unworked sts., the 4th st. is wrapped by yo.
24th r. (WS): work all sts of left needle until the st. which is visually wrapped by yo, then purl the yarn you have wrapped around the st. together with the st. P1 and “wrap and turn”, now turn on RS. There is 1 unworked st., the 2nd st. is wrapped by yo.
25th r. (RS): k15, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k14 and, in 15th st., which is visually wrapped by yo, work the yarn you have wrapped around the st. together with the st., then k1 and “wrap and turn”. Now turn (move on RS). You have completed the r.
26th r. (WS): purl all sts.of left needle until second-last st. which is visually wrapped by yo, then purl the yarn you have wrapped around the st. together with the st. P1, to complete the r.
Binding off with chain-seam using third needle
At this point the balaclava has reached the needed measures, so bind off the top band as foll.:
1 – Turn the balaclava upside down (to hide the seam inside the fabric).
2 – Divide the stitches in half. Move half stitches on right needle and half stitches on left needle.
3 – grip both points of circular needles with left hand.
4 – move the sts. onto points of needles.
5 - put 2 points beside (RS against RS).
6 – using the right hand, grip the third needle, and bind off.
7 – insert the third needle into 1st st. of front point and into 1st st. of back point together, then k2tog; on third needle there is the 1st worked st. (in right hand). Cont. for second couple of sts. (on front needle and on back needle respectively); this st. is onto third needle too. Using one point (in your left hand) pass first st. on third st. over the second one. Continue binding off all sts.
NB: if you have an odd number of sts., work last st. alone.
At last cut the yarn. Hide the ends on WS.
THIRD PART (COLLAR)
Pick-up the sts. needed to work in round the end piece of your neck warmer.
Leave 15 cm tail. Shape a small loop and place i tonto right point of circular needles. Pick-up and move onto right point the 4 sts. you have left at beginning of work (cut the knot of the thread) and move the 4 sts. on the needle, close to small loop.
On each one of 2 pieces of balaclava edge, pick-up 19 sts., at steady distance (19 sts. on one side and 19 sts. on the other one). There 38 sts. 4 sts. you had left at beginning and then moved onto right point close the loop.
NB: to pick-up the sts., hold the yarn as if you are knitting. Always insert the point into the sts. of second-last r. (to avoid holes shaping).
To pick-up the sts, always insert the needle into the central hole of one st. (not into space between two sts.), then wrap the yarn around the needle, moving it on right needle. Always check your work and count the sts.; after picking up all sts. there are: 4 sts. (you have left), 19 sts. for first half and 19 sts. for second half = 42 sts. Place one SM on right point.
From 1st to 9th round: knit.
10th round (bind off the sts.): k2, using point of left needle, pass first st. over second one of right needle, * k1, pass first st. over second st. of right needle *, rep. from * to * until you have bound off all sts.
Hide the ends.
BALACLAVA
MATERIAL
YARN = 1 ball of col. 04 CHUNKY DEGRADÈ by LAINES DU NORD
CIRCULAR NEEDLES = 12 mm points and 40 cm cable (60 cm circumference, points included)
OTHERS = darning needle with silicon eye, stitch marker suits for 12 mm points, pins, scissors, tape measure.
SAMPLE
10 x 10 cm: 7 sts. and 10 r. in stocking st. using 12 mm points.
SHARE
ABBREVIATIONS
RS = right side of work
WS = wrong side of work
SM = stitch marker
SMb = stitch marker of the beginning of the round
r. = row(s) / round(s)
st.(s) = stitch(es)
incr. = increase
col. = color
k = knit
decr. = decrease
tog. = together
rep. = repeat
p = purl
follow(ing)
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
k2tog-b = knit 2 stitches together through the back loop
yo = yarn over
NOTES
Work the balaclava from central hole (opening for face) and continue in round shaping the hood. Using the specific key, fasten the points at cable.
SKILL LEVEL: Experienced
MEASURES
SIZE
This yarn has wide elasticity, of 2 cm approx. For this reason, it suits to small and big heads too.
POINTS USED
Invisible closing in round: slip 1st st. from left to right needle. Pass 2nd st. of right needle over 1st st. and drop it. After fastening the work, pull 2 yarns together (yarn from ball and cast-on end); the stitch you have dropped will tighten itself and make one knot, shaping the invisible closing and fastening the ring. At last, move the 1st st. from right to left point, placing SM on right point.
Stocking stitch in round
1st round and next rounds: knit until SM, move SM.
Stocking stitch in back-and-forth rows
1st r. (RS): knit.
2nd r. (WS): purl.
Always rep. 1st and 2nd f.
Decrease to the left (Slip-slip-knit): with right point slip 1st st. k-wise, slip 2nd st. k-wise; move these 2 sts. onto left point of needles, as they appear. At last, k2tog-b like shown by the picture.
Decrease to the right: k2tog
Short rows technique (= wrap
INSTRUCTIONS
FIRST PART
Cast-on 60 sts. ( 1). Do not twist the sts. on cable. Make the invisible closing in round, place the SMb on right point and move it upwards as you work.
1st, 2nd and 3rd round: k60 until end of round, move the SM.
Across next round work the decreases.
4th round: k2, 1 decr. to the left, k1 in every st. until 4 before the SM, 1 decr. to the right, k2 on last 2 sts.
NB: the 4th round is the last one in stocking st. in round and then you start the stocking st. in back-and-forth rows.
At the end of this round, knit first 2 sts. after SM too, then leave (on safety pin or wool thread closed in ring shape) 2 sts. before SM and first 2 sts. after SM (4 sts. in total). Remove the SM, as you don’t need it anymore!
In case you are using the wool thread (10 cm in length approx.), thread the darning needle and slip 2 sts. from left needle onto thread, as they appear. Now unthread the needle, knot at 2 ends of thread securing the 4 sts. you have left.
SECOND PART
NB: to use the circular needles in back-and-forth rows, keep all sts. to left point. In this way the right point is free, and you can use it freely.
Continue in stocking st. in back-and-fort rows.
1st r. (RS): knit the rem. 54 sts. you have on left needle. Turn.
2nd r. (WS): purl the rem. 54 sts. you have on left needle. Turn.
From 3rd to 14th r.: rep. (1st and 2nd r.) 6 times more.
15th r. (RS): k21, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k21.
16th f. (WS): slip 1st st., slip p-wise all sts. until end of r.
At next r., start the short-rows technique.
17th r. (RS): k20, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k12 and in 13th st. make “wrap and turn” (= 8 unworked sts. on left needle): slip p-wise next st. from left needle to right needle, move the yarn of ball in front of work and slip st. onto left needle again, now turn (from now on, work on WS). There are 7 unworked sts. and the eighth st. is wrapped by yo.
18th r. (WS): purl every st. until 8 sts. to the end (there are 8 sts. to the end of r.), in next st. work “wrap and turn”: move the yarn of ball in back of work, slip p-wise next st. from left needle to right needle, then slip the st. on left needle again, turn (from now on, work on RS). There are 7 unworked sts. and the eighth is wrapped by yo.
19th r. (RS): k11, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k11, and in 12th st., which is visually wrapped by yo (i.e. the st. that you have moved, wrapped and moved in previous row again), then work the yarn, you have wrapped around the st., together with the st. K1 and “wrap and turn” again like above (there are 5 unworked sts.). The 6th st. is wrapped by yo. Turn.
20th r. (WS): k44 until the st. which is visually wrapped by yo, then purl the yarn, you have wrapped around the st., together with the st. P1 and “wrap and turn” like above, move the yarn of ball in back of work, slip next st. p-wise from left needle to right needle, then slip the st. back onto left needle, turn (from now on, work on RS). There are 5 unworked sts. and the 6th is wrapped by yo.
21st r. (RS): k13, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k12 and, in 13rd st., which is visually wrapped by yo, work the yarn, you have wrapped around the st., together with the st., then k1 and “wrap and turn”, like above (there are 3 unworked sts). The 4th st. is wrapped by yo.
22nd r. (WS): purl all sts. of left needle until the st. which is visually wrapped by yo, then purl the yarn you have wrapped around the st. together with the st. P1 and “wrap and turn”, then move the yarn of ball on WS, slip next st. from left needle to right needle, slip st. back on left needle and turn on RS. There are 3 unworked sts., the 4th st. is wrapped by yo.
23rd r. (RS): k14, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k13 and, in 14th st., which is visually wrapped by yo, work the yarn you have wrapped around the st. together with the st., then k1 and “wrap and turn”. Turn (move on RS), there are 3 unworked sts., the 4th st. is wrapped by yo.
24th r. (WS): work all sts of left needle until the st. which is visually wrapped by yo, then purl the yarn you have wrapped around the st. together with the st. P1 and “wrap and turn”, now turn on RS. There is 1 unworked st., the 2nd st. is wrapped by yo.
25th r. (RS): k15, 1 decr. to the right, k6, 1 decr. to the left, k14 and, in 15th st., which is visually wrapped by yo, work the yarn you have wrapped around the st. together with the st., then k1 and “wrap and turn”. Now turn (move on RS). You have completed the r.
26th r. (WS): purl all sts.of left needle until second-last st. which is visually wrapped by yo, then purl the yarn you have wrapped around the st. together with the st. P1, to complete the r.
Binding off with chain-seam using third needle
At this point the balaclava has reached the needed measures, so bind off the top band as foll.:
1 – Turn the balaclava upside down (to hide the seam inside the fabric).
2 – Divide the stitches in half. Move half stitches on right needle and half stitches on left needle.
3 – grip both points of circular needles with left hand.
4 – move the sts. onto points of needles.
5 - put 2 points beside (RS against RS).
6 – using the right hand, grip the third needle, and bind off.
7 – insert the third needle into 1st st. of front point and into 1st st. of back point together, then k2tog; on third needle there is the 1st worked st. (in right hand). Cont. for second couple of sts. (on front needle and on back needle respectively); this st. is onto third needle too. Using one point (in your left hand) pass first st. on third st. over the second one. Continue binding off all sts.
NB: if you have an odd number of sts., work last st. alone.
At last cut the yarn. Hide the ends on WS.
THIRD PART (COLLAR)
Pick-up the sts. needed to work in round the end piece of your neck warmer.
Leave 15 cm tail. Shape a small loop and place i tonto right point of circular needles. Pick-up and move onto right point the 4 sts. you have left at beginning of work (cut the knot of the thread) and move the 4 sts. on the needle, close to small loop.
On each one of 2 pieces of balaclava edge, pick-up 19 sts., at steady distance (19 sts. on one side and 19 sts. on the other one). There 38 sts. 4 sts. you had left at beginning and then moved onto right point close the loop.
NB: to pick-up the sts., hold the yarn as if you are knitting. Always insert the point into the sts. of second-last r. (to avoid holes shaping).
To pick-up the sts, always insert the needle into the central hole of one st. (not into space between two sts.), then wrap the yarn around the needle, moving it on right needle. Always check your work and count the sts.; after picking up all sts. there are: 4 sts. (you have left), 19 sts. for first half and 19 sts. for second half = 42 sts. Place one SM on right point.
From 1st to 9th round: knit.
10th round (bind off the sts.): k2, using point of left needle, pass first st. over second one of right needle, * k1, pass first st. over second st. of right needle *, rep. from * to * until you have bound off all sts.
Hide the ends.