PIUMA MOHAIR VEST
DIFFICULTY = Very hard
YARN = PIUMA MOHAIR H.Couture Line by Laines du Nord col. 7, 3 balls.
CIRCULAR NEEDLE = size 5.5 mm and 7.5 mm tips with 80 cm cable, size 5.5 mm short tips with 40 cm cable.
OTHERS = Stitch marker, row counter, darning needle.
The garment is worked bottom up in one seamless piece to the armholes, then it is divided into 3 parts worked separately to the shoulders. After working the vest, pick-up the sts around the armholes and neckline and work the bands. The instructions cover 3 oversize sizes. Each size increases by 2 cm in width at the hips and 2 cm in length on the finished garment.
11 sts and 17 rows, in stockinette stitch using size 7.5 mm tips= 10 cm, measured after blocking.
Stockinette stitch
Row 1 (RS): knit.
Row 2 and even rows: purl.
Rib 2x2
Row 1 (RS): *k2, p2 *.
Row 2 and even rows (WS): *p2, k2 *.
RS = right side of the work.
WS = wrong side of the work.
k = knit.
p = purl.
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together.
skp = slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.
SIZE = S, M, L
MEASUREMENTS
Size shown in the picture: S
Circumference: 104 cm
Length from undersleeve: 30cm
Total length: 59 cm
Procedure
FRONT AND BACK UNTIL THE ARMHOLES
Using size 5.5 mm tips, 80 cm cable and waste yarn, cast-on 132, (140, 148) sts and close in the round, P-SM (BOR), cut the yarn.
Using Piuma Mohair yarn, knit one round and work 2 rounds as follows:
Round 1: (k1, slip 1 st p-wise) until the end of the round.
Round 2: (slip 1 st k-wise, p1) until the end of the round.
Work the next round as follows:
*k1, hold next st in back, k1, purl the held stitch, p1*, repeat from* to* until the end of the round.
Continue working 16 rounds in rib 2x2, decreasing 12 sts properly distributed across the last round. There are 120, (128, 136) sts.
Switch to 7.5 mm tips and continue as follows:
German short Rows
k13, turn
p26, turn
k39, turn
p52, turn
k65, turn
p78, turn
k91, turn
p104, turn
knit until the row counter.
Round 2: knit placing 1 SM after 30 (32, 34) sts and 1 SM after 60 (64, 68) sts.
From Round 3 to Round 34: knit. Knit until the first SM (after 30 sts).
Divide the panel in front and back (60, 64, 68 sts), working in back-and-forth rows as follows:
BACK
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: purl.
Continue following the pattern until Row 34 (36, 38). Leave 18 sts for the neckline.
FRONT
Work as given for back until Row 26 (28, 30). Continue as follows:
bind off 4 sts at the centre, continue working two pieces separately following the pattern and decreasing, on both side of neckline, 4 sts, 2 sts, 1 st. Continue even until Row 30 (32, 34).
COLLAR
Join the shoulders with 3 needles bind off
Using size 5.5 mm tips and 40 cm cable, pick-up 24 sts along the front neckline and 20 sts along the back neckline, then work as follows:
From Round 1 to Round 14: rib 2x2 (k2, p2).
Leave 44 sts.
FINISHING
Fold collar in half to the inside and sew with invisible stitches.
Armhole finishings: using 5.5 mm tips and 40 cm cable, pick-up 56 (60, 64) sts along the armhole and work as follows:
From Round 1 to Round 4: rib 2x2 (k2, p2).
Work the next round as follows:
Round 9: *k1, hold next st in front, p1, knit the held st, p1*, repeat from* to* until the end of the round.
Round 10: (k1, slip 1 st p-wise) until the end of the round.
Round 11: (slip 1 st k-wise, p1) until the end of the round.
Bind off in graft st using the darning needle.
Hide the ends. Wet and block.
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
3 needles bind off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph93jWSzTa0
German short Rows: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AThNaGPUgLs
Row 1: slip first st k-wise with yo (double st), knit until indicated.
Row 2: slip first st p-wise with yo (double st), purl until indicated.
Across the next rows, work the double st as a single st.
