SLIPPERS BABUCCE
DIFFICULTY = Hard
YARN = 200 grams of your choice col. of SLIPPERS by LAINES DU NORD (for one pair of slippers)
CIRCULAR NEEDLES = size 6 mm or 7 mm points and 60 cm cable (if you knit tightly, use 6 mm needles; if you knit loosely, use 7 mm needles)
CROCHET-HOOK = size 6 mm
OTHERS = darning needle, scissors, tape measure.
Using circular needles, work the slippers in stocking st. in round, beg. from the toe. Approx. halfway up the foot, continue working in back-and-forth rows until reaching the desired foot size. At last, the slippers should be finished first at the toe and then sewn on the back side for the heel.
After finishing, the slippers will be 30% larger than the intended size, so felting is necessary. Wrap the slippers in a towel to ease the process, then, using enzymes-and-whiteners-free detergent, machine wash them at 40 degrees on a long wash program (not for delicate garments). After machine washing, shape the slippers to the desired size while still damp. Refer to the provided chart for this step.
Stocking stitch in round: knit all round.
Stocking stitch in back-and-forth rows
1st r. (RS): knit all sts.
2nd r. (WS): purl all sts.
Always rep. 1st and 2nd round.
RS = right side of work
WS = wrong side of work
SM = stitch marker
SMb = stitch marker of the beginning of the round
st. / sts. = stitch/stitches
col. = color
k = knit
sl st = slip stitch
p = purl
r. = row / rows
yo = yarn over
incr. = increase
decr. = decrease
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
rep. = repeat
​​​​​​​foll. = follow / following
Foot size: 35/36
Foot length cm: 21/22
Slipper length cm: (before felting): 28/29
Foot size: 37/38
Foot length cm: 23/24
Slipper length cm: (before felting): 31,5/32
Foot size: 39/40/41
Foot length cm: 25/26/27
Slipper length cm: (before felting): 33/34/36
For next washes use wool garment program.
Procedure
To achieve the shading in the toe (as shown in the picture), start knitting from the outside of the ball. If you prefer the toe to be in a solid color and the back shaded, begin knitting from the inside of the ball.
This pattern fits for foot-size 35 to 41.
FIRST PART
For all sizes, cast-on 20 sts.: make a loop and place it on one needle to secure the yarn (leave a 15 cm tail that will be used to finish the toe), then hold the needles side by side, pass the yarn around both needles, from left to right shaping an eight, until there are 10 sts. left on the left needle and 10 sts. on the right one. Do not count the cast-on loop.
From the next round start counting the rounds and working with the “magic loop” technique: * pull the right needle by bringing the right needle stitches onto the cable, allowing the stitches to be worked on the left needle; after working all stitches on left needle, move the stitches from the cable to the left needle, then rep. from * to *.
1st round: close in round and knit all sts. To mark the end of every round, place the SM after last st. you have worked and unfasten the cast-on loop.
2nd round: knit all sts. and, at the end of the round place 1 SM in 1st and in 10th st.
3rd round: knit all sts., increasing 1 st. on both sides of each of 2 sts. where you have placed the SM (= yo before the st. with SM, knit the st. with SM, yo after the st. with SM). [4 increases]
4th round: work all sts. in knit st. and the yo in knit st. through the back loop.
5th round: knit.
Rep. from 3rd to 5th round: 3 times for the sizes 35/36 À 4 times for the sizes 37/38 À 5 times for the sizes 39/40/41. Gradually move the stitch markers to the corresponding highlighted stitches in the 2nd round.
After working these increases there are: 32 sts. for the sizes 35/36 À 36 sts. for the sizes 37/38 À 40 sts. for the sizes 39/40/41. Continue in stocking st. in round, reaching 12 cm for the sizes 35/36, 14 cm for the sizes 37/38, 16 cm for the sizes 39/40/41.
SECOND PART
Cut the yarn and cont. in stocking st. in back-and-forth rows, beginning from the front center. Keep 2 SM of increases as a reference. Count the stitches between the 1st and 2nd SM. Divide in half to find the exact center. Pass the extra stitches onto the left needle and remove the SMb, which is no longer needed.
1st r. (WS): p1, yo, p1, yo, purl until last 2 sts., yo, p1, yo, p1 [4 increases].
2nd r. (RS): p1, knit the yo through the back loop, p1, knit the yo through the back loop, k10, 1 decrease (= k2tog), continue in knit stitch until 16 sts. from the end of row (yo included), 1 decr. (= k2tog), k10, knit the yo through the back loop, p1, knit the yo through the back loop, p1
Rep. last 2 r. twice more.
Continue working in stocking st. until reaching the cm needed for your size, as shown in the chart.
Use the crochet-hook to close the slipper by sewing in slip stitch; make sure there is the same number of stitches on each needle. Put them next to each other, then beginning at the top, hook 1 st. of the right needle and 1 st. on the left one, and close by working one slip stitch; continue with this technique, until all stitches are bound off.
HEEL: fold the lower tip and sew (WS) approx. 4 cm horizontally; it shapes an excess triangle; cut the triangle and give the finishing touch using the darning needle.
TOE: using the crochet-hook and tail (you have left), work 10 slip stitches joining the large cast-on stitches.
FINISHING IN ROUND AROUND THE OPENING (TOP OF SLIPPER): beginning from the front center, pick-up 42 sts. for the sizes 35/36 À 46 sts. for the sizes 37/38 À 48/50 sts. for the sizes 39/40/41; make sure you have the same number of stitches on each side; for example, 46 sts. = 23 sts. on the right and 23 sts. on the left.
Work 3 rounds in stocking st. and across 4th round bind off all sts.
FLAP: pick-up 6 sts. at top of back and work 5 r. in stocking st. in back-and-forth rows then, across 6th r., bind off all sts.
Secure loose ends on the WS.
Work the second slipper as given for the first one.