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Dore de Perse

MATERIAL

Luxury Silk Laines du Nord, 4 balls of knitting needles 4.5 / 5 stitch markers 5; color 11

SAMPLE

cm. 10X10 = 16 stitches, 32 rows.

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ABBREVIATIONS

m = stitch (e);
MP = point mark;
pMP = pass MP
LD = right side of the work
LR = wrong side of the piece
dr = straight;
r = reverse;
viv = edge;
2ins = 2 sts together knit
3ins = 3 sts together knit
acc = simple overlap: slip a stitch without knitting it, 1 dr, overlap the passed stitch over that worked.
get = one toss
rip ** =
repeat from * to *
G = round, F = iron; K = straight, d Rit = twisted right, P. = purl, MP = stitch marker,
pM = stitch marker DDL = right side RDL = wrong side, GET = cast
M1 = raise the yarn that passes between one stitch and another and knit it straight
1 st = a crossed stitch
K 2 ins = knit 2 stitches together
P 2 ins = purl 2 together
P 2 ins twisted = work 2 stitches together taken twisted
Ins 3 = knit 3 stitches together
1 double st acc = slip a stitch without working it, work
2 stitches together knit, and pass the passed stitch over the others
2 sts pss = slip 2 stitches loosely with the yarn as if you are purl

NOTES

This shirt is worked from one side to the other. The two parts are worked the same up to a certain point, then the back is worked with the LEFT sleeve, and the front is worked with the RIGHT sleeve.
The two parts are joined with the closure with 3 irons. Size S fits up to 46, size M fits up to 50 MEASURES size S = from sleeve to sleeve about 93 cm, total height 50/55 cm. Neckline circumference 70 cm; lower edge circumference about 90 cm, cuff 26 cm

POINTS USED

Stockinette stitch, garter stitch, lace work

INSTRUCTIONS

SLEEVES SAME from [a] right and left, It starts with working in the round

[START with iron n.4.5, mount 54 S (M 60) close in round METTI MP

Work rib = P 1, 1 dRit for 12 (M 14) rounds

With needles # 5, SETTING Change the needles and put on # 5

WORKING STRAIGHT, make 1st round = 27 S (M 30 /),

PUT MP, 27 S (M 30 /), END OF LAP

[2nd g = all straight

3rd round = 1 k, M1, all straight and one stitch before mp:

M1, 1 dir, Pmp, 1 dir, M1, all straight and a first knit of mp: M1, 1 dir END OF THE LAP

REPEAT round 2 and round 3 for 2 more times then

8th g = all straight

9th g = all straight and one stitch before mp: M1, 1 k, Pmp,

1 dir, M1, all straight up to the END OF THE LAP]

REPEAT from [a] another S 8 times (M 10), total stitches = 180 (M 214)

BE VERY CAREFUL from now on WORKING IN THE FORWARD AND RETURN ROWS:

from INITIAL mp: straight up to END OF THE LAP THEN TURN AND WORK IN ROWS AND RETURNS, while you work then remove the initial Mp, when it is clear to you where you need to turn.

RDL 1 row = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, purl to MP,

Pmp, purl up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass with the yarn in front TURN

DDL 2 rows = K 2, 8 (12) dRit, straight and a stitch before mp: M1, 1 k, Pmp, 1 k, M1, all straight up to 10 (14) sts from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2 dir normal, VOLTARE.

REPEAT row 1 and row 2 another 2 (M 4 times),

TOTAL JERSEY 186, (M 224) THEN

RDL 1 row = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, purl up to 2 stitches before MP then K 1, P 1, Pmp, P 1, K 1, purl up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 ( 12) dRit, 2m pass with the yarn in front

TURN

DDL 2 rows = 2 kt, 8 (12) dRit, STRAIGHT up to 10 m from the end of the row then: 8 (12) dRit, 2 k normal,

TURN

RDL 3 rows = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, purl up to 3 stitches before MP; then K 2, P 1 Pmp, P 1, K 2, purl up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass with the yarn in front

TURN

DDL 4 rows = same as iron 2

RDL 5 rows = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, purl up to 4 stitches before MP; then K 3, P 1, Pmp, P 1, K 3, purl up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass, TURN straight row

DDL 6 rows = same as iron 2

RDL 7 rows = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, purl up to 5 stitches before MP; then K 4, P 1, Pmp, P 1, K 4, purl up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass, VOLTARE]

HERE THE DIFFERENT PART BEGINS, HERE BELOW THE WORK BECOMES THE RIGHT SLEEVE WITH THE BACK ATTACHED

DDL 1 f = 2 dir, 8 (12) dRit, straight up to Mp, REMOVE MP, PUT IN SUSPENSION THE SHIRTS YOU HAVE JUST WORKED. Now continue ONLY ON THE OTHER DESTINATION in this way: straight up to 10 m from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2 dir normal.

RDL 2 rows = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, straight up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass

DDL 3 f = 2 dir, 8 (12) dRit, straight up to 10 (14) m from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2 dir normal

RDL 4 rows = same as iron 2

DDL 5 f = 2 dir, 8 (12 /) dRit, put MP, 4 (9) dir, put MP, INSERT SCHEME, put MP, 5 dir, put MP, INSERT SCHEME put MP, 5 dir, put MP INSERT SCHEME , put MP, 4 (8) dir, put MP, THEN straight twisted up to 2 stitches from the end then 2 normal dir

The diagram can be read from bottom to top from right to left

RDL 6 f = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, WORK following the SCHEMES, the stitches between the MPs must always be worked straight.

A 10 (14) stitches from the end 8 (12) dRit, 2 sts pss.

CONTINUE WORKING 4 (5 tg M) TIMES THE SCHEME, then:

DDL 1/3 = same as 3 iron

RDL 2/4 = same as 2 iron

PUT ALL THE SHIRTS IN SOPSESO.

DO ANOTHER SLEEVE by following the explanations starting from "START", on the first page, and that

indicate to work from (square bracket) [to] (square bracket)

After the other sleeve, you can continue from here, where it begins

THE WORK THAT WILL BECOME THE LEFT SLEEVE WITH THE FRONT ATTACHED

DDL 1 f = 2 dir, 8 (12) dRit, straight up to Mp.

NOW WE WORK ONLY ON THESE JERSEYS WHICH WILL BECOME THE FRONT OF THE JERSEY TURN OFF MP,

(if you prefer PUT THE SWEATERS of the other half that you have on the needle in SOPSESO)

RDL 2 rows = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, then STRAIGHT up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass

TURN

DDL 3 f = 2 dir, 8 (12) dRit, then STRAIGHT up to 10 (14) m from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2 dir normal

RDL 4 rows = same as iron 2

DDL 5 f = 2 dir, 8 (12) straight twisted, PUT MP, knit all stitches with double ELONGATED STITCHES straight, PUT MP, then straight twisted and ends with 2 normal dir.

RDL 6 f = 2m pass, straight twisted up to MP, Pmp, undo each stretched stitch and knit it REVERSE, up to MP, Pmp, then straight twisted ends with 2m pass

DDL 7 f = 2 dir, straight twisted up to MP, Pmp, straight up to MP, Pmp, then straight twisted ends with 2 normal dir.

RDL 8 f = 2m pass, straight twisted up to MP, Pmp, then REVERSE up to MP, Pmp, then straight twisted ends with 2m pass

Repeat row 5 to row 8 another 13 (16) times.

YOU SHOULD TRY ON THE SHIRT BEFORE attaching it to see if it is wide enough especially under the hips, or if you have to consider a large breast size.

If it is tight you can do other rows from 5 to 8 for another 2 or 3 times.

Finally work these 4 rows in garter stitch again

DDL 1/3 = same as 3 iron (above)

RDL 2/4 = same as 2 iron (above)

Close WITH THE 3-ROW TECHNIQUE, LEFT SLEEVE put the stitches that you have suspended on one needle, PUT THE BACK STITCHES (the ones with the lace work) on one needle and close them together on the wrong side of the piece.

RIGHT SLEEVE Put the stitches (which you have suspended before) on one needle, PLACE THE FRONT STITCHES on one needle and close them together on the wrong side of the piece.

null

Dore de Perse

MATERIAL

Luxury Silk Laines du Nord, 4 balls of knitting needles 4.5 / 5 stitch markers 5; color 11

SAMPLE

cm. 10X10 = 16 stitches, 32 rows.

SHARE
ABBREVIATIONS

m = stitch (e);
MP = point mark;
pMP = pass MP
LD = right side of the work
LR = wrong side of the piece
dr = straight;
r = reverse;
viv = edge;
2ins = 2 sts together knit
3ins = 3 sts together knit
acc = simple overlap: slip a stitch without knitting it, 1 dr, overlap the passed stitch over that worked.
get = one toss
rip ** =
repeat from * to *
G = round, F = iron; K = straight, d Rit = twisted right, P. = purl, MP = stitch marker,
pM = stitch marker DDL = right side RDL = wrong side, GET = cast
M1 = raise the yarn that passes between one stitch and another and knit it straight
1 st = a crossed stitch
K 2 ins = knit 2 stitches together
P 2 ins = purl 2 together
P 2 ins twisted = work 2 stitches together taken twisted
Ins 3 = knit 3 stitches together
1 double st acc = slip a stitch without working it, work
2 stitches together knit, and pass the passed stitch over the others
2 sts pss = slip 2 stitches loosely with the yarn as if you are purl

NOTES

This shirt is worked from one side to the other. The two parts are worked the same up to a certain point, then the back is worked with the LEFT sleeve, and the front is worked with the RIGHT sleeve.
The two parts are joined with the closure with 3 irons. Size S fits up to 46, size M fits up to 50 MEASURES size S = from sleeve to sleeve about 93 cm, total height 50/55 cm. Neckline circumference 70 cm; lower edge circumference about 90 cm, cuff 26 cm

POINTS USED

Stockinette stitch, garter stitch, lace work

INSTRUCTIONS

SLEEVES SAME from [a] right and left, It starts with working in the round

[START with iron n.4.5, mount 54 S (M 60) close in round METTI MP

Work rib = P 1, 1 dRit for 12 (M 14) rounds

With needles # 5, SETTING Change the needles and put on # 5

WORKING STRAIGHT, make 1st round = 27 S (M 30 /),

PUT MP, 27 S (M 30 /), END OF LAP

[2nd g = all straight

3rd round = 1 k, M1, all straight and one stitch before mp:

M1, 1 dir, Pmp, 1 dir, M1, all straight and a first knit of mp: M1, 1 dir END OF THE LAP

REPEAT round 2 and round 3 for 2 more times then

8th g = all straight

9th g = all straight and one stitch before mp: M1, 1 k, Pmp,

1 dir, M1, all straight up to the END OF THE LAP]

REPEAT from [a] another S 8 times (M 10), total stitches = 180 (M 214)

BE VERY CAREFUL from now on WORKING IN THE FORWARD AND RETURN ROWS:

from INITIAL mp: straight up to END OF THE LAP THEN TURN AND WORK IN ROWS AND RETURNS, while you work then remove the initial Mp, when it is clear to you where you need to turn.

RDL 1 row = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, purl to MP,

Pmp, purl up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass with the yarn in front TURN

DDL 2 rows = K 2, 8 (12) dRit, straight and a stitch before mp: M1, 1 k, Pmp, 1 k, M1, all straight up to 10 (14) sts from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2 dir normal, VOLTARE.

REPEAT row 1 and row 2 another 2 (M 4 times),

TOTAL JERSEY 186, (M 224) THEN

RDL 1 row = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, purl up to 2 stitches before MP then K 1, P 1, Pmp, P 1, K 1, purl up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 ( 12) dRit, 2m pass with the yarn in front

TURN

DDL 2 rows = 2 kt, 8 (12) dRit, STRAIGHT up to 10 m from the end of the row then: 8 (12) dRit, 2 k normal,

TURN

RDL 3 rows = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, purl up to 3 stitches before MP; then K 2, P 1 Pmp, P 1, K 2, purl up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass with the yarn in front

TURN

DDL 4 rows = same as iron 2

RDL 5 rows = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, purl up to 4 stitches before MP; then K 3, P 1, Pmp, P 1, K 3, purl up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass, TURN straight row

DDL 6 rows = same as iron 2

RDL 7 rows = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, purl up to 5 stitches before MP; then K 4, P 1, Pmp, P 1, K 4, purl up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass, VOLTARE]

HERE THE DIFFERENT PART BEGINS, HERE BELOW THE WORK BECOMES THE RIGHT SLEEVE WITH THE BACK ATTACHED

DDL 1 f = 2 dir, 8 (12) dRit, straight up to Mp, REMOVE MP, PUT IN SUSPENSION THE SHIRTS YOU HAVE JUST WORKED. Now continue ONLY ON THE OTHER DESTINATION in this way: straight up to 10 m from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2 dir normal.

RDL 2 rows = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, straight up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass

DDL 3 f = 2 dir, 8 (12) dRit, straight up to 10 (14) m from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2 dir normal

RDL 4 rows = same as iron 2

DDL 5 f = 2 dir, 8 (12 /) dRit, put MP, 4 (9) dir, put MP, INSERT SCHEME, put MP, 5 dir, put MP, INSERT SCHEME put MP, 5 dir, put MP INSERT SCHEME , put MP, 4 (8) dir, put MP, THEN straight twisted up to 2 stitches from the end then 2 normal dir

The diagram can be read from bottom to top from right to left

RDL 6 f = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, WORK following the SCHEMES, the stitches between the MPs must always be worked straight.

A 10 (14) stitches from the end 8 (12) dRit, 2 sts pss.

CONTINUE WORKING 4 (5 tg M) TIMES THE SCHEME, then:

DDL 1/3 = same as 3 iron

RDL 2/4 = same as 2 iron

PUT ALL THE SHIRTS IN SOPSESO.

DO ANOTHER SLEEVE by following the explanations starting from "START", on the first page, and that

indicate to work from (square bracket) [to] (square bracket)

After the other sleeve, you can continue from here, where it begins

THE WORK THAT WILL BECOME THE LEFT SLEEVE WITH THE FRONT ATTACHED

DDL 1 f = 2 dir, 8 (12) dRit, straight up to Mp.

NOW WE WORK ONLY ON THESE JERSEYS WHICH WILL BECOME THE FRONT OF THE JERSEY TURN OFF MP,

(if you prefer PUT THE SWEATERS of the other half that you have on the needle in SOPSESO)

RDL 2 rows = 2m pass, 8 (12) dRit, then STRAIGHT up to 10 (14) stitches from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2m pass

TURN

DDL 3 f = 2 dir, 8 (12) dRit, then STRAIGHT up to 10 (14) m from the end then: 8 (12) dRit, 2 dir normal

RDL 4 rows = same as iron 2

DDL 5 f = 2 dir, 8 (12) straight twisted, PUT MP, knit all stitches with double ELONGATED STITCHES straight, PUT MP, then straight twisted and ends with 2 normal dir.

RDL 6 f = 2m pass, straight twisted up to MP, Pmp, undo each stretched stitch and knit it REVERSE, up to MP, Pmp, then straight twisted ends with 2m pass

DDL 7 f = 2 dir, straight twisted up to MP, Pmp, straight up to MP, Pmp, then straight twisted ends with 2 normal dir.

RDL 8 f = 2m pass, straight twisted up to MP, Pmp, then REVERSE up to MP, Pmp, then straight twisted ends with 2m pass

Repeat row 5 to row 8 another 13 (16) times.

YOU SHOULD TRY ON THE SHIRT BEFORE attaching it to see if it is wide enough especially under the hips, or if you have to consider a large breast size.

If it is tight you can do other rows from 5 to 8 for another 2 or 3 times.

Finally work these 4 rows in garter stitch again

DDL 1/3 = same as 3 iron (above)

RDL 2/4 = same as 2 iron (above)

Close WITH THE 3-ROW TECHNIQUE, LEFT SLEEVE put the stitches that you have suspended on one needle, PUT THE BACK STITCHES (the ones with the lace work) on one needle and close them together on the wrong side of the piece.

RIGHT SLEEVE Put the stitches (which you have suspended before) on one needle, PLACE THE FRONT STITCHES on one needle and close them together on the wrong side of the piece.

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