MATERIAL
Yarn: Luxury Silk Laines du Nord, 5 balls of 50 grams, color 1 (3 balls of yarn) color 6 (2 balls of yarn)
Needles: nr.4,5 / 5; scoreboard 5
SHARE
ABBREVIATIONS
m = stitch (e);
MP = point mark;
pMP = pass MP
LD = right side of the work
LR = wrong side of the piece
dr = straight;
r = reverse;
viv = edge;
2ins = 2 sts together knit
3ins = 3 sts together knit
acc = simple overlap: slip a stitch without knitting it, 1 dr, overlap the passed stitch over that worked.
get = one toss
rip ** =
repeat from * to *
G = round, F = iron; K = knit, purl = purl, MP = stitch marker, pM = stitch marker DDL = right side RDL = wrong side, GET = yarn over M1 = raise the yarn that passes between one stitch and another and knit it
1 st = a crossed stitch
K 2 ins = knit 2 stitches together ddd = increase straight front back
1 double st acc = slip one stitch without working it, knit 2 stitches together, and pass the slipped stitch over the other 2 sts pss = slip 2 stitches without working them with the yarn as if you are purl
NOTES
This shirt is worked in the round, top down, from top to bottom. The yoke is divided into 3 sections, the first is a round yoke, with a series of irregular increases distributed over all the stitches. The second part is an openwork design
(multiple of 18 stitches) that makes a pattern and creates the increases.
In the third part the construction is recreated as a raglan stitch, so with 8 increases to make a YES round and a NO round. Finally, the work is divided to create the opening, in this phase we work in round-trip irons.
Developed in 2 sizes S / M
MEASURES
Size S = neckline about 65 cm, height from shoulder to sleeve colo about 21 cm, total length 56/57 cm, bust around 88 cm.
POINTS USED
Stockinette stitch, garter stitch, lace work
INSTRUCTIONS
START with iron n.4, mount 108 S (M 117) close in round METTI MP
1st round = completely purl
2 g = all straight
3 g = K 1, pull 1 st with yarn in front x the entire round
4 g = 1 pull st with front yarn, knit 1 x the entire round
5 g = all straight
6th round = completely purl
CHANGE IRON USE NO. 5
7 g = * 12 (13) dir, M1 * repeat from * to * x all round =
m.117 (126)
8 g = all straight
9 g = 7 (8) dir, M1, * 13 (14) dir, M1 * repeat from * to * e
ends the round with K 6 = st. 126 (135)
10 g = all straight
11 g = 6 (7) dir, M1, * 14 (15) dir, M1 * repeat from * to * x 8
times, ends the round with 8 dir. = 135 m (144)
12 g = all straight
13 g = * 15 (16) dir, M1 * repeat from * to * x all round =
jerseys 144 (153)
14 g = all straight
Only x the size M = 5 dir, M1, * 18 dir, M1 * repeat from * to
* x 8 times,
ends the tour with 4 dir. = 162 stitches
15 g = full purl = total stitches 144 (162)
COLOR CHANGE insert 8 (size M 9) drawings BETWEEN ONE drawing and the other put MP,
Design: multiple of 18 links
1st g = * 2 m ins, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 12 dir, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get,
1 st acc * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
2/4/6/8/10/12/14/16/18 = all straight
3rd g = * 2 st ins, 1 k, 1 get, 1 k 1 get, 1 st, 8 k, 2 st ins, 1 get, 1 k, 1 get, 1 k, 1 st * repeat from * to * x
8 (9) times
5th g = * 2 st ins, 2 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 st acc, 6 dir, 2 abs, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 2 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
7th g = * 2 st ins, 3 k, 1 get, 1 k 1 get, 8 k, 1 get, 1 k, 1 get, 3 k, 1 st * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
9th g = * 2 st ins, 4 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 st acc, 4 dir, 2 abs, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 4 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
11th g = * 2 st ins, 5 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 st acc, 2 dir, 2 abs, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 5 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
13th g = * 2 st ins, 6 dir, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 4 dir, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 6 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
15th g = * 2 st ins, 7 dir, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 st acc, 2 abs, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 7 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 9 ( 10 times
17th g = * 2 st ins, 8 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 2 sts ins, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 8 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
Phase 3
COLOR CHANGE = 1st g = all straight
REMOVE THE MP FROM THE DRAWING
2nd g = completely purl
TOTAL OF THE SHIRTS = 200 Tg M 225
DIVISION OF WORK TO BE ABLE TO CONTINUE WITH INCREASES LIKE A RAGLAN.
Starting from Mp of the beginning of the 3rd day = 30 dir (M33), M1,
PUT MP; 1 dir, M1, 38 dir (M44), M1, 1dir, METTI MP
M1, 60 dir (M67), M1, PUT MP; 1 dir, M1, 38 dir (M44), M1,1 dir, METTI MP, M1, straight until END OF THE LAP
4th g = all STRAIGHT
5th g = straight and first Mp M1, pMP; 1 dir, M1, straight and 1 first Mp M1, 1dir, pMP
M1, straight and first Mp M1, pMP; 1 dir, M1, straight and 1 first Mp, M1.1 dir, pMP M1, straight up to END OF THE LAP
6th g = all STRAIGHT
Repeat row 4 and 5 a further 7 times, (TG M
X 8/9) TIMES then:
YOU MUST TRY IT TO SEE IF IT'S OK
THE HULL OF THE MAINICA. Then
1st g = straight up to pMP; all reverse, Pmp, straight,
pMP; completely reverse, pMP, straight up to END OF LAP
2nd g = all STRAIGHT
REPEAT rounds 1 and 2 for another time, then
5th g = straight up to Mp, REMOVE MP, CLOSE SOFTLY
the links up to Mp, REMOVE MP,
straight up to MP, REMOVE MP, CLOSE SOFTLY le
links up to Mp, REMOVE MP,
now working straight REMOVE MP from the beginning, work up
at the end of the iron.
WORK UNION IN THE ROUND Assemble 8/10 stitches,
Put MP (which will now be that of the change of round) knit until the end of the row, fit 8/10 stitches, knit until the END OF THE ROUND.
Now work in the round in SHINY stitch,
for about 10 cm.
At the end of the 10 cm, make 10 INCREASES evenly distributed in one round Ddd, STRAIGHT, FRONT and BACK), you need to make 2 stitches in one, AS THIS WAY:
Make 1 straight, do not unload it, then work it on the back again.
Then 1 round completely purl.
WORK DIVIDER TO create the side split
COLOR CHANGE = STARTING FROM initial Mp: 50 straight, PUT Mp, then straight up to END OF LAP, TOLGI MP, then straight up to the MARKER YOU PUT BEFORE.
TURN and be very ATTENTION NOW WE COME BACK
BACK AND WORKING FORWARD AND RETURN,
In this way:
RDL 1 row = EDGE = 2m pass, * K 1 P 1 * repeat from ** to * x 3 times in total, K 1, PUT MP, purl to end of row. Now you can REMOVE MP, it is no longer needed because you have to work back and forth
TURN
DDL 2 row = ASSEMBLE 9 STITCHES then knit the 9 mounted stitches, PUT MP, then STRAIGHT up to Mp, Pmp, * 1rov, 1 k * repeat from ** to * x 3 times in total, 1 p, 2 k .
TURN
RDL 3 row = 2m pass, * K 1 P 1 * from ** to * x 3 times in total, K 1, Pmp, purl to MP, Pmp * 1 K 1 P * repeat from ** to * x 3 times in all, 1 dir, 2m pass.
THEN TURN
DDL 4 rows = K 2, * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from ** to * x 3 times in total, P 1, Pmp, STRAIGHT up to Mp, then Pmp, * 1 v, 1 K * repeat from ** a * x 3 times in total, P 1, K 2.
REPEAT row 3 and row 4 for approx. 24/25 CM inserting the rows as desired, REMEMBER THAT THE COLOR CHANGE IS ALWAYS MADE
TO THE STRAIGHT OF WORK.
So when you change color make a straight iron from start to finish even on the edge.
Remember that ALWAYS STRAIGHT TO WORK, EVERY 6 cm (size M EVERY 4 cm) YOU MUST distribute 10 INCREASES regularly
IN stockinette stitch you have to make the increase in this way:
M1s = with the tip of the right needle lift the yarn that passes between one stitch and the other and place it on the left needle so that you can work it twisted by taking it from the back.
END the stitch with a GARTER border, (so all straight) but always WORK the side edges in the same way as before, for about 2 or 3 cm. Then close softly.
At the end, sew the part of the increased stitches below, so as to overlap the opening.
If desired, sew 1 Button closing the slit, another 2 or 3 attach them only as decoration.
DOUCEUR DE SAUGE
MATERIAL
Yarn: Luxury Silk Laines du Nord, 5 balls of 50 grams, color 1 (3 balls of yarn) color 6 (2 balls of yarn)
Needles: nr.4,5 / 5; scoreboard 5
SHARE
ABBREVIATIONS
m = stitch (e);
MP = point mark;
pMP = pass MP
LD = right side of the work
LR = wrong side of the piece
dr = straight;
r = reverse;
viv = edge;
2ins = 2 sts together knit
3ins = 3 sts together knit
acc = simple overlap: slip a stitch without knitting it, 1 dr, overlap the passed stitch over that worked.
get = one toss
rip ** =
repeat from * to *
G = round, F = iron; K = knit, purl = purl, MP = stitch marker, pM = stitch marker DDL = right side RDL = wrong side, GET = yarn over M1 = raise the yarn that passes between one stitch and another and knit it
1 st = a crossed stitch
K 2 ins = knit 2 stitches together ddd = increase straight front back
1 double st acc = slip one stitch without working it, knit 2 stitches together, and pass the slipped stitch over the other 2 sts pss = slip 2 stitches without working them with the yarn as if you are purl
NOTES
This shirt is worked in the round, top down, from top to bottom. The yoke is divided into 3 sections, the first is a round yoke, with a series of irregular increases distributed over all the stitches. The second part is an openwork design
(multiple of 18 stitches) that makes a pattern and creates the increases.
In the third part the construction is recreated as a raglan stitch, so with 8 increases to make a YES round and a NO round. Finally, the work is divided to create the opening, in this phase we work in round-trip irons.
Developed in 2 sizes S / M
MEASURES
Size S = neckline about 65 cm, height from shoulder to sleeve colo about 21 cm, total length 56/57 cm, bust around 88 cm.
POINTS USED
Stockinette stitch, garter stitch, lace work
INSTRUCTIONS
START with iron n.4, mount 108 S (M 117) close in round METTI MP
1st round = completely purl
2 g = all straight
3 g = K 1, pull 1 st with yarn in front x the entire round
4 g = 1 pull st with front yarn, knit 1 x the entire round
5 g = all straight
6th round = completely purl
CHANGE IRON USE NO. 5
7 g = * 12 (13) dir, M1 * repeat from * to * x all round =
m.117 (126)
8 g = all straight
9 g = 7 (8) dir, M1, * 13 (14) dir, M1 * repeat from * to * e
ends the round with K 6 = st. 126 (135)
10 g = all straight
11 g = 6 (7) dir, M1, * 14 (15) dir, M1 * repeat from * to * x 8
times, ends the round with 8 dir. = 135 m (144)
12 g = all straight
13 g = * 15 (16) dir, M1 * repeat from * to * x all round =
jerseys 144 (153)
14 g = all straight
Only x the size M = 5 dir, M1, * 18 dir, M1 * repeat from * to
* x 8 times,
ends the tour with 4 dir. = 162 stitches
15 g = full purl = total stitches 144 (162)
COLOR CHANGE insert 8 (size M 9) drawings BETWEEN ONE drawing and the other put MP,
Design: multiple of 18 links
1st g = * 2 m ins, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 12 dir, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get,
1 st acc * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
2/4/6/8/10/12/14/16/18 = all straight
3rd g = * 2 st ins, 1 k, 1 get, 1 k 1 get, 1 st, 8 k, 2 st ins, 1 get, 1 k, 1 get, 1 k, 1 st * repeat from * to * x
8 (9) times
5th g = * 2 st ins, 2 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 st acc, 6 dir, 2 abs, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 2 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
7th g = * 2 st ins, 3 k, 1 get, 1 k 1 get, 8 k, 1 get, 1 k, 1 get, 3 k, 1 st * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
9th g = * 2 st ins, 4 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 st acc, 4 dir, 2 abs, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 4 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 9 (10) times
11th g = * 2 st ins, 5 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 st acc, 2 dir, 2 abs, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 5 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
13th g = * 2 st ins, 6 dir, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 4 dir, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 6 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
15th g = * 2 st ins, 7 dir, 1 get, 1 dir 1 get, 1 st acc, 2 abs, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 7 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 9 ( 10 times
17th g = * 2 st ins, 8 dir, 1get, 1 dir 1 get, 2 sts ins, 1 get, 1 dir, 1 get, 8 dir, 1 st cc * repeat from * to * x 8 (9) times
Phase 3
COLOR CHANGE = 1st g = all straight
REMOVE THE MP FROM THE DRAWING
2nd g = completely purl
TOTAL OF THE SHIRTS = 200 Tg M 225
DIVISION OF WORK TO BE ABLE TO CONTINUE WITH INCREASES LIKE A RAGLAN.
Starting from Mp of the beginning of the 3rd day = 30 dir (M33), M1,
PUT MP; 1 dir, M1, 38 dir (M44), M1, 1dir, METTI MP
M1, 60 dir (M67), M1, PUT MP; 1 dir, M1, 38 dir (M44), M1,1 dir, METTI MP, M1, straight until END OF THE LAP
4th g = all STRAIGHT
5th g = straight and first Mp M1, pMP; 1 dir, M1, straight and 1 first Mp M1, 1dir, pMP
M1, straight and first Mp M1, pMP; 1 dir, M1, straight and 1 first Mp, M1.1 dir, pMP M1, straight up to END OF THE LAP
6th g = all STRAIGHT
Repeat row 4 and 5 a further 7 times, (TG M
X 8/9) TIMES then:
YOU MUST TRY IT TO SEE IF IT'S OK
THE HULL OF THE MAINICA. Then
1st g = straight up to pMP; all reverse, Pmp, straight,
pMP; completely reverse, pMP, straight up to END OF LAP
2nd g = all STRAIGHT
REPEAT rounds 1 and 2 for another time, then
5th g = straight up to Mp, REMOVE MP, CLOSE SOFTLY
the links up to Mp, REMOVE MP,
straight up to MP, REMOVE MP, CLOSE SOFTLY le
links up to Mp, REMOVE MP,
now working straight REMOVE MP from the beginning, work up
at the end of the iron.
WORK UNION IN THE ROUND Assemble 8/10 stitches,
Put MP (which will now be that of the change of round) knit until the end of the row, fit 8/10 stitches, knit until the END OF THE ROUND.
Now work in the round in SHINY stitch,
for about 10 cm.
At the end of the 10 cm, make 10 INCREASES evenly distributed in one round Ddd, STRAIGHT, FRONT and BACK), you need to make 2 stitches in one, AS THIS WAY:
Make 1 straight, do not unload it, then work it on the back again.
Then 1 round completely purl.
WORK DIVIDER TO create the side split
COLOR CHANGE = STARTING FROM initial Mp: 50 straight, PUT Mp, then straight up to END OF LAP, TOLGI MP, then straight up to the MARKER YOU PUT BEFORE.
TURN and be very ATTENTION NOW WE COME BACK
BACK AND WORKING FORWARD AND RETURN,
In this way:
RDL 1 row = EDGE = 2m pass, * K 1 P 1 * repeat from ** to * x 3 times in total, K 1, PUT MP, purl to end of row. Now you can REMOVE MP, it is no longer needed because you have to work back and forth
TURN
DDL 2 row = ASSEMBLE 9 STITCHES then knit the 9 mounted stitches, PUT MP, then STRAIGHT up to Mp, Pmp, * 1rov, 1 k * repeat from ** to * x 3 times in total, 1 p, 2 k .
TURN
RDL 3 row = 2m pass, * K 1 P 1 * from ** to * x 3 times in total, K 1, Pmp, purl to MP, Pmp * 1 K 1 P * repeat from ** to * x 3 times in all, 1 dir, 2m pass.
THEN TURN
DDL 4 rows = K 2, * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from ** to * x 3 times in total, P 1, Pmp, STRAIGHT up to Mp, then Pmp, * 1 v, 1 K * repeat from ** a * x 3 times in total, P 1, K 2.
REPEAT row 3 and row 4 for approx. 24/25 CM inserting the rows as desired, REMEMBER THAT THE COLOR CHANGE IS ALWAYS MADE
TO THE STRAIGHT OF WORK.
So when you change color make a straight iron from start to finish even on the edge.
Remember that ALWAYS STRAIGHT TO WORK, EVERY 6 cm (size M EVERY 4 cm) YOU MUST distribute 10 INCREASES regularly
IN stockinette stitch you have to make the increase in this way:
M1s = with the tip of the right needle lift the yarn that passes between one stitch and the other and place it on the left needle so that you can work it twisted by taking it from the back.
END the stitch with a GARTER border, (so all straight) but always WORK the side edges in the same way as before, for about 2 or 3 cm. Then close softly.
At the end, sew the part of the increased stitches below, so as to overlap the opening.
If desired, sew 1 Button closing the slit, another 2 or 3 attach them only as decoration.