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ALPACA SHAWL

MATERIAL

Yarn: Laines du Nord Ciliegia gr. 50 for each of these colors n. 1-m1-m3-g2-gr3.
Irons: number 4.

SAMPLE

CM 5X 5 = 9 stitches, 14 rows

SHARE
ABBREVIATIONS

m = stitch (e);
MP = point mark;
pMP = pass MP
LD = right side of the work
LR = wrong side of the piece
dr = straight;
r = reverse;
viv = edge;
2ins = 2 sts together knit
3ins = 3 sts together knit
acc = simple overlap: slip a stitch without knitting it, 1 dr, overlap the passed stitch over that worked.
get = one toss
rip ** =
repeat from * to *
DIR = RIGHT
ROV = REVERSE
2 M. ASS = 2 MASSIEME A STRAIGHT
2 M. ASSrov = 2 MASSIEME REVERSE
DDL = LABOR LAW LD = RIGHT SIDE
RDL = REVERSE OF WORK
DDD = BARRED INCREASE (WORK 1 STRAIGHT FRONT AND 1 BACK IN THE SAME SHIRT)
A / V = ​​SHORT ROWS ALSO CALLED WIND AND TURN: get to the stitch indicated, pass it on the right needle without working it, wrap the yarn around, put it back on the left needle, turn the work and continue as indicated, when you return to the wrapped stitch you must work it together with the thread you used to wrap it to avoid creating a hole

NOTES

This shawl is worked flat in return rows, making 1 increase and 2 decreases in all rows, a scalene triangle is formed, which will run out until all the stitches are closed. It also has worked parts and has shortened irons, so to tackle the job you need to be familiar with this technique, it is very useful to maybe take a course or watch the videos and do the tests first.

POINTS USED

GARTER STITCH, SATIN JERSEY, SHORT ROWS, BARRED INCREASE, I-CORD CLOSURE 2 STRAIGHT STITCH DECREASES 2 STITCHES, 2 REVERSE AND BACK STITCHES

INSTRUCTIONS

FIRST PART
CAST ON 200 stitches with dark brown

1st F. DDL .: 1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, all straight up to the last 7 sts. then 2 m. ass. to k., 1 k, 2 sts. ass. to dir., 2 dir.

2nd F. RDL .: 2 dir. soft, 2 m.ass. purl, purl 1, 2 hr. P, (IF IN GARTER STRAIGHT, IF IN SHIRT STITCH ALL IN REVERSE) up to the 3rd last st, 1 DDD, 2 k.

ATTENTION THESE INCREASES AND DECREASES MUST BE CARRIED OUT FOR THE WHOLE TRIANGLE UNTIL THE 200 LINKS WE HAVE STARTED, ANY KIND OF GARTER PROCESSING, SHAVED JERSEY BELOW EXPLAINED.

GARTER STITCH for 4 rows

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DOUBLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS.

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DDL .: CHANGE COLOR LIGHT BROWN SHIRT 8 ROWS

SIMPLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS,

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DDL .: TAUPE COLOR CHANGE SHIRT 8 ROWS

DOUBLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS,

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DDL .: CHANGE COLOR WHITE 8 ROWS SATIN JERSEY

SIMPLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS,

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DDL .: CHANGE COLOR LIGHT GRAY 8 ROWS SATIN JERSEY

SIMPLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS,

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DDL .: DARK GRAY COLOR CHANGE 8 ROWS SHINED SWEATER

DOUBLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS,

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

PAST KNITTING

WHITE 1 ° F. DDL.:1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, all straight up to the last 7 m. then 2 m. ass. to k., 1 k, 2 sts. ass. to dir., 2 dir.
2nd F. RDL .: 2 dir. soft, 2 m.ass. purl, purl 1, 2 hr. purl, ALL REVERSE up to the 3rd last st, 1 DDD, 2 k.

TAUPE 3 ° F. DDL.:1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, * WORK 1M. A DIR, SLIP A STITCH WITHOUT WORKING IT WITH THE FRONT YARN *, REPEAT FROM * TO * THE ENTIRE ROW up to the last 7 sts. then 2 m. ass. to k., 1 k, 2 sts. ass. to dir., 2 dir.

4th F. RDL .: 2 dir. soft, 2 m.ass. purl, purl 1, 2 hr. purl, * WORK THE STITCH THAT YOU DID NOT WORK IN BACKWARD BEFORE, SLIP A STITCH WITHOUT WORKING IT *, REPEAT FROM * TO * THE ENTIRE ROW until the 3rd last st, 1 DDD, 2 K.

WHITE 5 ° F. DDL.:1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, * WORK 1M. A DIR, SLIP A STITCH WITHOUT WORKING WITH THE FRONT YARN *, REPEAT FROM * TO * THE ENTIRE ROW until the last 7 sts. then 2 m. ass. to k., 1 k, 2 sts. ass. to dir., 2 dir.

6th F. RDL .: 2 dir. soft, 2 m.ass. purl, purl 1, 2 hr. purl, * WORK THE STITCH THAT YOU DID NOT WORK IN BACKWARD BEFORE, SLIP A STITCH WITHOUT WORKING IT *, REPEAT FROM * TO * THE ENTIRE ROW until the 3rd last st, 1 DDD, 2 K.

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT 3rd TO 4th IRON WITH LIGHT BROWN

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

TOTAL 6 IRONS

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT FROM THE 3RD TO THE 4TH IRON WITH THE TAUPE

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

TOTAL 6 IRONS

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT 3rd TO 4th IRON WITH LIGHT GRAY

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

TOTAL 6 IRONS

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT 3rd TO 4th IRON WITH DARK GRAY

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT FROM 1 TO 2 ROW WITH DARK GRAY

TOTAL 8 IRONS

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT FROM THE 3rd TO THE 4th IRON WITH THE TAUPE

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT FROM 1ST TO 2ND IRON WITH THE TAUPE

TOTAL 8 IRONS

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT 3rd TO 4th IRON WITH LIGHT GRAY

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT FROM 1 TO 2 ROW WITH LIGHT GRAY

TOTAL 8 IRONS

There should be 8 stitches left here, 1st row = 1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, 2 dir. 2 m. ass. to dir., 2 dir.

2nd F = 2 dir. soft, 2 m.ass. to purl, 1 DDD, 2 dir.

Row 3 = K 4, 2 sts ss

Row 4 = knit 2, knit 2, knit 1

5 ° F = .2 m. ss, 2 m. ass to say

CLOSE ALL THE SHIRTS, UP TO HERE YOU MUST HAVE DONE A TOTAL 200 ROWS.

When the triangle is finished it looks like this:

BASE (where there is the start) = right side of the job,

LEFT SIDE is the one where you made the catkins,

WHERE you made the decreases will be the width from the piece, i.e. the top side of the shawl.

Reverse the work starting from the RIGHT SIDE, TO LABOR LAW

SECOND PART

SECTION WITH GARTER STITCH

DARK GRAY COLOR STARTING FROM THE RIGHT OF THE WORK

ROW 1 = collect 200 stitches, (these are the starting stitches) with a smaller needle it will be easier.

PUT MARCAPUNTO then pick up another 150 (I'm on the side where you made the increases)

2nd IRON L. S = 1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, 5 dir, A / V

VOLTA, straight up to the third last stitch, 1 DDD, 2 dir.

3 ROW = 1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, all K up to the wrapped stitch, pull up the yarn with the wrapped stitch, 5 dir, A / V

VOLTA straight up to the third last stitch, 1 DDD, 2 dir.

CONTINUE WITH SHORT ROWS AS DESCRIBED ABOVE, WITH INCREASES ON THE SIDES, every 5 stitches, until 118 stitches have been worked.

TAUPE COLOR CHANGE

Continue with the same short rows as described above up to the MARKER, THEN GO BACK

WHITE COLOR CHANGE

1st row = K 1, 1 ddd, K all up to the last 3 sts. then 1 ddd, 2 dir. soft.

2nd row = K 1, 1 ddd, K all up to the last 3 sts. then 1 ddd, 2 dir. soft.

3rd row = K 1, 1 ddd, K all up to the last 3 sts. then 1 ddd, 2 dir. soft.

4th row = K 1, 1 ddd, K all up to the last 3 sts. then 1 ddd, 2 dir. soft.

Softly close all the links, hide the tails and lock, (soak in water and fabric softener, for 15 m. Then squeeze lightly by rinsing with cold water, point with the pins on a surface and allow to dry well.

null

ALPACA SHAWL

MATERIAL

Yarn: Laines du Nord Ciliegia gr. 50 for each of these colors n. 1-m1-m3-g2-gr3.
Irons: number 4.

SAMPLE

CM 5X 5 = 9 stitches, 14 rows

SHARE
ABBREVIATIONS

m = stitch (e);
MP = point mark;
pMP = pass MP
LD = right side of the work
LR = wrong side of the piece
dr = straight;
r = reverse;
viv = edge;
2ins = 2 sts together knit
3ins = 3 sts together knit
acc = simple overlap: slip a stitch without knitting it, 1 dr, overlap the passed stitch over that worked.
get = one toss
rip ** =
repeat from * to *
DIR = RIGHT
ROV = REVERSE
2 M. ASS = 2 MASSIEME A STRAIGHT
2 M. ASSrov = 2 MASSIEME REVERSE
DDL = LABOR LAW LD = RIGHT SIDE
RDL = REVERSE OF WORK
DDD = BARRED INCREASE (WORK 1 STRAIGHT FRONT AND 1 BACK IN THE SAME SHIRT)
A / V = ​​SHORT ROWS ALSO CALLED WIND AND TURN: get to the stitch indicated, pass it on the right needle without working it, wrap the yarn around, put it back on the left needle, turn the work and continue as indicated, when you return to the wrapped stitch you must work it together with the thread you used to wrap it to avoid creating a hole

NOTES

This shawl is worked flat in return rows, making 1 increase and 2 decreases in all rows, a scalene triangle is formed, which will run out until all the stitches are closed. It also has worked parts and has shortened irons, so to tackle the job you need to be familiar with this technique, it is very useful to maybe take a course or watch the videos and do the tests first.

POINTS USED

GARTER STITCH, SATIN JERSEY, SHORT ROWS, BARRED INCREASE, I-CORD CLOSURE 2 STRAIGHT STITCH DECREASES 2 STITCHES, 2 REVERSE AND BACK STITCHES

INSTRUCTIONS

FIRST PART
CAST ON 200 stitches with dark brown

1st F. DDL .: 1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, all straight up to the last 7 sts. then 2 m. ass. to k., 1 k, 2 sts. ass. to dir., 2 dir.

2nd F. RDL .: 2 dir. soft, 2 m.ass. purl, purl 1, 2 hr. P, (IF IN GARTER STRAIGHT, IF IN SHIRT STITCH ALL IN REVERSE) up to the 3rd last st, 1 DDD, 2 k.

ATTENTION THESE INCREASES AND DECREASES MUST BE CARRIED OUT FOR THE WHOLE TRIANGLE UNTIL THE 200 LINKS WE HAVE STARTED, ANY KIND OF GARTER PROCESSING, SHAVED JERSEY BELOW EXPLAINED.

GARTER STITCH for 4 rows

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DOUBLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS.

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DDL .: CHANGE COLOR LIGHT BROWN SHIRT 8 ROWS

SIMPLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS,

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DDL .: TAUPE COLOR CHANGE SHIRT 8 ROWS

DOUBLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS,

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DDL .: CHANGE COLOR WHITE 8 ROWS SATIN JERSEY

SIMPLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS,

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DDL .: CHANGE COLOR LIGHT GRAY 8 ROWS SATIN JERSEY

SIMPLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS,

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

DDL .: DARK GRAY COLOR CHANGE 8 ROWS SHINED SWEATER

DOUBLE RICE GRAIN FOR 8 ROWS,

SHAVED SWEATER FOR 8 ROWS

PAST KNITTING

WHITE 1 ° F. DDL.:1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, all straight up to the last 7 m. then 2 m. ass. to k., 1 k, 2 sts. ass. to dir., 2 dir.
2nd F. RDL .: 2 dir. soft, 2 m.ass. purl, purl 1, 2 hr. purl, ALL REVERSE up to the 3rd last st, 1 DDD, 2 k.

TAUPE 3 ° F. DDL.:1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, * WORK 1M. A DIR, SLIP A STITCH WITHOUT WORKING IT WITH THE FRONT YARN *, REPEAT FROM * TO * THE ENTIRE ROW up to the last 7 sts. then 2 m. ass. to k., 1 k, 2 sts. ass. to dir., 2 dir.

4th F. RDL .: 2 dir. soft, 2 m.ass. purl, purl 1, 2 hr. purl, * WORK THE STITCH THAT YOU DID NOT WORK IN BACKWARD BEFORE, SLIP A STITCH WITHOUT WORKING IT *, REPEAT FROM * TO * THE ENTIRE ROW until the 3rd last st, 1 DDD, 2 K.

WHITE 5 ° F. DDL.:1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, * WORK 1M. A DIR, SLIP A STITCH WITHOUT WORKING WITH THE FRONT YARN *, REPEAT FROM * TO * THE ENTIRE ROW until the last 7 sts. then 2 m. ass. to k., 1 k, 2 sts. ass. to dir., 2 dir.

6th F. RDL .: 2 dir. soft, 2 m.ass. purl, purl 1, 2 hr. purl, * WORK THE STITCH THAT YOU DID NOT WORK IN BACKWARD BEFORE, SLIP A STITCH WITHOUT WORKING IT *, REPEAT FROM * TO * THE ENTIRE ROW until the 3rd last st, 1 DDD, 2 K.

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT 3rd TO 4th IRON WITH LIGHT BROWN

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

TOTAL 6 IRONS

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT FROM THE 3RD TO THE 4TH IRON WITH THE TAUPE

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

TOTAL 6 IRONS

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT 3rd TO 4th IRON WITH LIGHT GRAY

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

TOTAL 6 IRONS

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT 3rd TO 4th IRON WITH DARK GRAY

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT FROM 1 TO 2 ROW WITH DARK GRAY

TOTAL 8 IRONS

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT FROM THE 3rd TO THE 4th IRON WITH THE TAUPE

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT FROM 1ST TO 2ND IRON WITH THE TAUPE

TOTAL 8 IRONS

REPEAT FROM 1st TO 2nd IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT 3rd TO 4th IRON WITH LIGHT GRAY

REPEAT FROM 5TH TO 6TH IRON WITH WHITE

REPEAT FROM 1 TO 2 ROW WITH LIGHT GRAY

TOTAL 8 IRONS

There should be 8 stitches left here, 1st row = 1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, 2 dir. 2 m. ass. to dir., 2 dir.

2nd F = 2 dir. soft, 2 m.ass. to purl, 1 DDD, 2 dir.

Row 3 = K 4, 2 sts ss

Row 4 = knit 2, knit 2, knit 1

5 ° F = .2 m. ss, 2 m. ass to say

CLOSE ALL THE SHIRTS, UP TO HERE YOU MUST HAVE DONE A TOTAL 200 ROWS.

When the triangle is finished it looks like this:

BASE (where there is the start) = right side of the job,

LEFT SIDE is the one where you made the catkins,

WHERE you made the decreases will be the width from the piece, i.e. the top side of the shawl.

Reverse the work starting from the RIGHT SIDE, TO LABOR LAW

SECOND PART

SECTION WITH GARTER STITCH

DARK GRAY COLOR STARTING FROM THE RIGHT OF THE WORK

ROW 1 = collect 200 stitches, (these are the starting stitches) with a smaller needle it will be easier.

PUT MARCAPUNTO then pick up another 150 (I'm on the side where you made the increases)

2nd IRON L. S = 1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, 5 dir, A / V

VOLTA, straight up to the third last stitch, 1 DDD, 2 dir.

3 ROW = 1 soft DIR, 1 DDD, all K up to the wrapped stitch, pull up the yarn with the wrapped stitch, 5 dir, A / V

VOLTA straight up to the third last stitch, 1 DDD, 2 dir.

CONTINUE WITH SHORT ROWS AS DESCRIBED ABOVE, WITH INCREASES ON THE SIDES, every 5 stitches, until 118 stitches have been worked.

TAUPE COLOR CHANGE

Continue with the same short rows as described above up to the MARKER, THEN GO BACK

WHITE COLOR CHANGE

1st row = K 1, 1 ddd, K all up to the last 3 sts. then 1 ddd, 2 dir. soft.

2nd row = K 1, 1 ddd, K all up to the last 3 sts. then 1 ddd, 2 dir. soft.

3rd row = K 1, 1 ddd, K all up to the last 3 sts. then 1 ddd, 2 dir. soft.

4th row = K 1, 1 ddd, K all up to the last 3 sts. then 1 ddd, 2 dir. soft.

Softly close all the links, hide the tails and lock, (soak in water and fabric softener, for 15 m. Then squeeze lightly by rinsing with cold water, point with the pins on a surface and allow to dry well.

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