Feather stitch bomber jacket
YARN = 5 (6) balls x 200 grams of col. 05 CHUNCHY DEGRADÈ by LAINES DU NORD
INTERCHANGEABLE CIRCULAR NEEDLES: 10- 12- 15 mm points, 120 cm and 60 cm cable.
CROCHET-HOOK = size 9 mm.
OTHERS = big stitch marker, darning needle with silicon coated eye, scissors, tape measure
Work the brioche stitch jacket from the bottom up, in back-and-forth rows. Work the first part (right front, left front, and back) in one piece up to the armholes. After dividing the knitting, work the 2 fronts, back, and sleeves separately, adjusting the size of needles to shape the jacket without increasing or decreasing. While working, make sure to match the yarn gradient using the available number of balls.
The instructions below are for sizes S (M/L), where the number before the parentheses corresponds to size S, while the number in parentheses corresponds to size M/L.
BRIOCHES STITCH OR FALSE FISHERMAN'S RIB STITCH
Using “open” circular needles, work on even stitches in back-and-forth rows.
It’s the same pattern on RS and WS.
Preparation row: rib 1/1(k1, p1) rep. across the entire r.
1st r.: 1 double knit stitch (insert the needle into the center of the knit stitch from the previous r.), 1 purl stitch on the purl stitch of the current r., rep. until the end, turn.
2nd r.: like the 1st r., (the sts. will alternate but the technique is the same).
Rep. the 1st and 2nd r. until reaching the indicated length.
CHAIN STITCH SEAM: on the RS (the chain stitch will be visible), place the 2 parts to be joined on 2 needles and pair them (WS against WS), positioning the knitting yarn inside, thus in the center of the 2 parts.
Joining: work together the 1st st. from both needles, taking the inner loop from the left needle with the crochet hook without dropping it, then, using the crochet hook, take the inner loop from the right needle (2 loops on the hook), yo and pull through both loops, closing them together (1st chain st. completed), drop the 1st sts. from the needle.
Rep. the same process to join each pair of corresponding sts. from both parts.
OPENING BANDS
1st r. (WS): slip 1st st. p-wise (with the yarn in front), 1 yo (pass the yarn over the right needle from front) and cont. foll. the specified st. pattern, knitting the last st. of the row.
2nd r. (RS): slip 1st st. k-wise (with the yarn in back), cont. foll. the specified st. pattern until the end of the row, knitting tog. the yo and the last st.
Rep. the 1st and 2nd r. across the entire length of the jacket.
RS = right side of work
WS = wrong side of work
SM = stitch marker
st. / sts. = stitch / stitches
col. = color
k = knit
yo = yarn over
r. = row / rows
p2tog = purl 2 stitches together
rep. = repeat / repeating
p = purl
cont. = continue / continuing
foll. = follow / following
beg. = begin / beginning
SIZES S (M-L)
GARMENT MEASUREMENTS
Size shown in the picture: S
Chest circumference (measure of closed jacket): 108 cm
Total height: 59 cm
Height from undersleeve: 35 cm
Circumference of top part of sleeve: 46 cm
Length from undersleeve: 44 cm
Height of the whole collar: 15 cm
Height of the front collar: 10 cm
Procedure
FRONT AND BACK UP TO THE ARMHOLES
Using circular needles with 12 mm points and 120 cm cable, cast-on 78 (84) sts. beg. from the outside of the ball.
For band shaping, using size 10 mm points work rib 1/1.
1st r. (WS): (k1, p1) rep. across the entire r., turn.
2nd r. (RS): work the sts. as they appear.
3rd and 4th r.: switch to size 12 mm points and rep. the 1st and 2nd r.
From the next r. (which becomes the 1st r.), work 41 r. in brioche st. for all sizes. Work the front center bands on both sides as described. Before starting the 2nd r. in brioche st., switch to size 15 mm points.
NOTE: use the degradਠball
After finishing the 1st ball, proceed with the 2nd one, beg. from the inside (dark color)
Around the 39th r., beg. the 3rd ball from the outside (white color).
Once you complete the 41st r., switch to size 12 mm points and 60 cm cable. Then, using the 3rd ball, start to work separately the left upper front, temporarily setting aside the right upper front and back.
LEFT UPPER FRONT
Starting on the WS, using the 3rd ball, work 18 (20) sts. in brioche st. (do not count the yo for the band), shaping bands on both sides. Place the remaining sts. on a st. wire and turn. Continue back and forth as established for a total of 22 r. At the end, do not cut the yarn of the 3rd ball and place the sts. on a st. wire.
RIGHT UPPER FRONT
Using the 4th ball, skip the initial part (white) until matching the color gradient with the left upper front.
Starting on the WS from the sleeve side, work 22 r. as given for the right upper front. Then, place the sts. on a st. wire and set aside the 4th ball.
Before starting the upper back, bind off 6 sts. on each side to shape the undersleeves, leaving 30 (32) sts. for the back.
BACK
Use the 5th ball from the outside.
On the WS, work on the central 30 (32) sts. in brioche sts. for 24 r., shaping bands on both sides. Cut the yarn, leaving some of it for the collar.
Keep all the sts. on the needles.
CHAIN STITCH SHOULDER SEAM
Start by joining the sts. of the right front with the sts. of the right side of the back (WS against WS) and join them with a chain st. on the RS (do not count the yo for the bands and work each one tog. with its respective foll. st.)
Using the same needle as the back (keeping all sts. on the cable), pick up the sts. of the right front left on hold on a second cable. Then, with size 12 mm points facing right (beg. shoulder) and using a crochet hook, close tog. in chain st. (see description above) 12 (14) sts. of the front and 12 (14) sts. of the back.
After closing the 12th (14th) pair of sts., cut the yarn, leaving some of it for the sleeves.
Place on hold the remaining 6 sts. of the front opening (collar) and 6 sts. of the back center (collar).
Join the left front shoulder with the left side of the back using the same method as for the right front, starting the seam from the shoulder side.
COLLAR IN SHORT ROWS
Using the 5th ball from the outside, pick up 6 sts. left on hold, starting from the right front center (do not count the yo for the band). Pick up 4 sts. on each side of the shoulder seam (2 sts. before the seam and 2 sts. after), 6 sts. from the back, 4 sts. on each side of the seam, and 6 sts. from the left front center; totaling 26 sts.
1st r. (RS): using size 12 mm needles, beg. from the left front center, work 6 sts. (with band and false fisherman's rib st.), place 1 SM, work 14 sts., place 1 SM, work the last 6 sts. (plus 1 yo for the band), turn.
2nd r. (WS): work 20 sts., * yarn in front, slip the SM and the 21st st. onto the right needle, yarn to the back, slip the 21st st. and the SM onto the left needle *; this creates a loop around the 21st st. to prevent unsightly holes in short row knitting. Turn.
3rd r. (RS): work 14 sts. * slip the SM onto the right needle, yarn in front, slip the 15th st. onto the right needle, move the yarn to the back, return the slipped st. and the SM to the left needles *; turn
4th r. (WS): work 14 sts. (from SM to SM), * move the 2nd marker, use the right needle to pick up the loop around the 15th st. and place it on the left needle, work tog. the loop and the st., then work the last 6 sts. on the needle *; turn.
5th r. (RS): work up to the 2nd SM (= 20 sts.), then rep. from * to * in the same way as the 2nd r., turn.
6th r. (WS): work 14 sts., rep. from * to * in the same way as the 3rd r.; turn.
7th r. (RS): work 14 sts., rep. from * to * in the same way as the 4th r.; turn.
8th r. (WS):work all sts., making sure to work tog. the st. and the loop (st. after the SM).
9th r. (RS): like 2nd r.
10th r. (WS): like 3rd r.
11th r. (RS): like 4th r.
12th r. (WS): like 8th r.
13th r. (RS): work all sts.
14th r. (WS): like 2nd r.
15th r. (RS): like 3rd r.
16th r. (WS): like 4th r.
17th r. (RS): like 8th r.
18th r. (WS): like 2nd r.
19th r. (RS): like 3rd r.
20th r. (WS): like 4th r.
21st r. (RS): like 8th r.
22nd r. (WS): bind off the sts. loosely. Knit the 1st st. of the band, * p the p st., then pass it over the previous st., 1 brioche st. over the brioche st. and pass it over the previous st. *, rep. from * to * until the last st. of the band, knit the yo and the last st. tog.
LEFT SLEEVE
Using size 10 mm points and the remaining yarn from the 3rd ball for the left front, taking it from the outside, cast on 32 sts. for all sizes.
From the 1st to the 24th r.: brioche st.
Switch to size 12 mm points.
From the 25th to the 40th r.: brioche st.
Switch to size 10 mm points.
From the 41st to the 54th r.: brioche st.
55th r.: p2tog 16 times (16 decreases).
Cont. shaping the 1/1 ribbed band for 5 r., then on the 6th r., bind off all sts.
RIGHT SLEEVE
Work like the left sleeve, using the remaining yarn from the 4th ball used for the right front, taking the yarn from the outside.
NOTE:The yarn from the 3rd and 4th balls may not be enough to complete the sleeves. For size S, use the remaining yarn from the 5th ball, starting from the inside to match the gradient. For sizes M/L, use the 6th ball and make sure to divide and match the gradient, just as you did for the entire jacket.
FINISHING
Sew the undersleeves using chain st., then sew the upper edges of the sleeves around the armholes.
Hide the ends. Wet and block. Wear!